Fancy Pans

Artisanal Premium Cheese Center--Cheese & Wine 101

2011-09-14T18:32:00.000-07:00

Tonight, I was invited to partake in a Cheese & Wine 101 at the Artisanal Premium Cheese Center located at 283 10th Avenue between 36th and 37th Streets. The evening commenced with a reception which showcased a variety of cheeses, fondue and Cava followed by a processional into the cozy adjacent room that would serve as our classroom for the remainder of the evening. We would be guided by our instructor, Candela Prol, a wine enthusiast, cheese enthusiast and general foodie. I have taken the liberty of borrowing from her expertly prepared notes to describe the extraordinary cheeses and wines that we tasted this evening. I am hopeful that I do them justice.

Each place setting was adorned with a "Cheese Clock"; a selection of cheeses arranged from mild to the more assertive varieties starting at the 6 o'clock position. The selection was alternated between milk types and textures to create balance and harmony. Young, mild goats, double or triple cremes and/or bloomy rind cheeses enveloped the 6 o'clock-9 o'clock positions.

Specifically, a Garrotxa which is a goat's milk cheese produced in the Catalonia region in northern Spain. The flavor is milky and delicate with a hint of nuttiness and a clean, smooth finish. A Terraluna, produced in Utah from clean raw Jersey cow milk. A member of the cheddar family evoking a deeper flavor and a longer finish than most cheddars. Think explosive!

The next type of cheese was the soft to semi-firm, like a mild cow, an aged goat or a sheep milk cheese occupying the 9 o'clock to 12 o'clock positions. A Manchester, aged, raw-milk, washed-rind goat milk cheese produced at the Consider Bardwell Dairy in western Vermont known for its rotational grazing on the pastures at the dairy, as well as the aging process itself. The cheese was firm in texture and had a nutty and rustic bite.

The progression continued with the stronger, bolder and nuttier varieties such as hard mountain, long-aged cheddars and mild washed ring ('stinky") cheeses. Stella Royale, a traditional style of pressed sheep milk cheese from northwest Spain made from the Churra breed, a native of the region that is able to thrive throughout the extremes of seasons. The high quality of milk produces a cheese with a full-flavored, nutty flavor that lingers luxuriously on the palate.

To finish, the 3 o'clock to 6 o'clock positions contained cheeses with a bigger presence, such as more assertive washed rind cheeses or a classic blue cheese like Roquefort. Edwin's Munster, an organic cow milk cheese produced in Schwarzenber, a small town in western Austria ,had a pungent aroma and a meaty flavor. Appenzeller, a classic Swill "alpage" cheese that receives its unique flavors form the herbs, liquors and wines that comprise the solution in which the wheels are bathed is washed frequently and aged for a minimum of four months until they develop an herbaceous, nutty flavor and a smooth, milky finish. Appenzeller is one of the classic Swiss fondue trio along with Emmenthaler and Gruyere. Finally, Roquefort, the quintessential French blue cheese which has been made for centuries exclusively in the Aveyron district of south central France. It is piquant, richly flavored, creamy, crumbly and melts in your mouth.

Four wine glasses were carefully placed above each cheese plate.

A Rueda from Spain (2009), 75% Verdejo and 25% Viura; a Chardonna from France (2009) Macon Villages Domaine des Vercheres; a Rioja Reserva Fe Bodegaas Loli Casado from Spain (2005) and a Syrah Carmassa Avondale from South Africa (2005). An initially complex score sheet labeled across with the four wines and down with the seven cheeses signified that we would have to work for our education in Cheese and Wine. As we worked our way through the tasting we rated each cheese on its own and then how it paired with the wines using a system of -2 to+2. 0 representing a neutral effect, +1 representing like, +2 representing synergy between cheese and wine and the converse on the negative side. We all found ourselves wanting to give partial points for our experiences.

Completely satiated, I surveyed my score sheet and tallied my points. Having compared notes with other guests throughout the evening, I concluded that there is a lot of subjectivity at play and that the best way to learn what is most pleasing to one's palate is through experimentation. That being the case, I found that the Rueda was my all around favorite, especially as we worked through the more assertive cheeses; the Rioja Reserva was a distant second, the Chardonnay worked well with the Garrotxa and Stella Royale cheeses but were slightly off-putting with the remainder; the Syrah paired best with the Garrotxa and Stella Royale.

I would definitely recommend this class for anyone with a curiosity for pairing cheese and wine. Candela did a great job of making the subject matter accessible while showcasing its complexity making me all the more interested in advanced study. Sarah Porten-Faw, the event coordinator at Artisanal Premium Cheese Center organized a splendid event.

Take Me Out to the Ballpark

2011-05-26T22:04:00.000-07:00

I don't pretend to be a fan of most sports; I'm a casual follower of almost all (more so during playoff season). But, you'd swear I was a die-hard fan during the NBA Playoffs, the World Series, the Super Bowl or the Kentucky Derby as I seize on an opportunity to turn a sporting event into a culinary experience. This week, I joined a group of colleagues on a mid-week outing to a Yankees game.

As the day approached, I realized that I didn't even know who the opposing team was. But that mattered none for I had heard that the new Yankee Stadium was the home of a plethora of dining options. From Philly Cheese steaks and garlic fries to traditional ballpark fare consisting of peanuts and popcorn and crackerjacks not to mention the hot dogs. Little did I know that I could even satisfy a craving for sushi if I so desired.

The sensory stimulation and prominent posting of calories at every food stand overwhelmed me a bit. To no avail, I desperately searched for a directory of all the eateries so I could make sense of it all and methodically plot out the extent to which I was willing to succumb to the multitude of dietary sins. In the end, I consumed several over-priced beers, a tender, dry-aged, prime rib sandwich doused with a spicy, creamy horseradish sauce from Lobel's and a generous helping of super garlicky fries. Believe it or not, these turned out to be some of the most calorie-friendly options at the ballpark.

With full belly and the satisfaction of a home-team victory over the Toronto Blue Jays, I battled a congested subway station in the Bronx. I didn't mind the crowds as I knew it would provide time to digest and prepare me for my next indulgence at Momofuku Ssam Bar. More on that later.

Fried Catfish and Creamy, Cheesy Grits

2011-05-02T19:49:00.000-07:00

Several weeks ago, we played host to one of David's closet friends from childhood. Given his well- established, deep southern roots and acumen in preparing good old comfort food, I was unsure of what culinary journey I should embark upon. I did not want to make anything that could be viewed as pretentious; too fancy, exotic or pretty. At the same time, I knew I could not compete with his Southern repertoire. My skill in this area is mostly self-taught and usually involves a twist on authentic recipes; stripping away some of the richness that defines many dishes in favor of healthier options that don't pretend to be what they are not.

As I struggled with my options, David's friend phoned to inform us of his ETA and casually asked if I was frying up some catfish for him. I ran to Whole Foods, grabbed some catfish, searched for grits and also grabbed some quick appetizers to serve as I prepared the meal. These proved to be sufficient. The evening came and went without a filet of catfish getting close to a pan. The next morning, I decided to cook a big, southern breakfast. Fried catfish, creamy, cheesy grits and eggs. I did not attempt to fuss with the meal and instead opted to satisfy cravings for the fatty richness that often accompany a long night of drinking.

Mediterranean Night With Culinary Buddies

2011-04-11T21:30:00.000-07:00

Tonight, I shared an evening with several friends from culinary school. The menu consisted of an assortment of Mediterranean Tapas from a trip last year.

We had tabbouleh-inspired quinoa with cucumbers, tomatoes and parsley dressed with lemon and olive oil.

Fiery lamb meat balls heavily scented with cumin.

And olive salad consisting of green olives, scallions, tomatoes and pomegranate molasses.

I did not take a picture of the tomato, onion and garlic stuffed eggplant but promised my friend, Ellen, the recipe.

6 medium eggplant, long thin variety
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 medium onions, finely chopped
3 tomatoes, skinned and chopped
8 cloves garlic, finely sliced
salt and sugar. to taste
juice of 1 lemon
1/2 c chopped parsley
1/2 c hot water

Directions:

Preheat oven to 400.
With a sharp peeler, partially peel the eggplant in alternate vertical stripes from stem to base leaving the stalk intact. In each eggplant, cut a deep slit leghthways, without cutting through to the skin on the opposite side. Put the eggplant in a bowl of salted water for about 30 minutes, using a plate as a weight to hold them under the surface.

Heat some of the olive oil and saute the chopped onions until translucent. Transfer the onions to a bowl with a slotted spoon and add the chopped tomatoes, garlic, salt, sugar. lemon juice and half the chopped parsley.

Drain the eggplant and squeeze dry. Heat a little more olive oil, add the eggplant and lightly brown on either side. Place them side by side in a well-oiled dish. Spoon the tomato and onion filling into the slits of the eggplant and pour any surplus over them. Mix a little more sugar and salt with the hot water and any remaining olive oil. Pour this over the eggplant and bake in the preheated oven for 45 minutes or until the eggplant are tender.

Set aside to cool. Transfer to a serving plate and garnish with the remaining chopped parsley.

Healthful Living

2011-04-08T19:48:00.000-07:00

I try not to make too many resolutions knowing that life tends to interfere and frustrate my good intentions. Leaving me feeling guilty. So this lent, I decided to merely resolve to live more healthfully. I would not give up anything specific. The results have been quite satisfying. I've consumed less animal protein and processed foods. My caloric intake has been less dependent on liquid calories and more on fresh vegetables, fruits and whole grains.

An important component of healthful living has also meant spending more time with family and friends. Quality time. Tonight was a perfect example and a reminder that simple is often better. We had friends over for dinner which I harvested from a refrigerator and pantry overstocked with fresh produce, grains and condiments. The menu consisted of oven-roasted, panko crusted flounder dusted with delicately-spicy Turkish seasonings. The sides were a panoply of root vegetables and grains brightened with hints of flavor inspired by Spring.

Savory quinoa with roasted asparagus, toasted pine nuts and candied orange peel.

Roasted red and yellow beets marinated in mint oil.

A raw kale salad, gently massaged with a garlic, freshly-squeezed lemon juice and olive oil dressing. Tossed with a sharp parmagiano reggiano cheese, inspired by a recent post by a good culinary buddy.

We also enjoyed a healthy serving of roasted brussel sprouts simply seasoned with sea salt.

Our friends are from Brooklyn so we indulged in libations celebrating the Borough. All in all, the evening tended toward the healthful side of the spectrum. So I am feeling quite contented.

Roasted Radishes & Garlicky Artichoke & Anchovy Bruschetta

2011-04-08T19:16:00.000-07:00

Tonight, we had a nice quiet dinner at home with good friends. After opting out of dinner at a local restaurant, I scoured our refrigerator for odds and ends to make a healthy, home-cooked meal. We started the evening with a crispy bruschetta topped with a dollop of garlicky artichoke and anchovy spread garnished with beautiful roasted radishes.

The recipe was quite simple. I basically enhanced an otherwise bland artichoke spread by incorporating finely minced garlic made into a paste by smearing the aromatic bits with coarse grains of sea salt against the edge of a knife on a cutting board. I added an Italian anchovy paste which I found tucked away in my cabinet.

While the flavors of the spread married, I sliced radishes into sixths, tossed them with olive oil and roasted them for about 15 minutes at 350. I completed the dish by toasting slightly-oiled rounds of a day old french baguette. The results were simple but dramatic.

French Macaroon Workshop @ Dessert Truck

2011-04-03T20:20:00.000-07:00

Earlier this week, David and I took a workshop focused on French Macaroons. Those adorable confections that look like pastel mini hamburgers. I came across the class on Groupon and thought it would be a wonderful treat especially since David has acquired an affection for this dessert and it has been on my lengthy culinary "to do" list for some time. It was quite fun. The owner of The Dessert Truck was a formidable, attentive host. He and his sous chef lavished us with attention throughout the night. The evening commenced with a brief description of different types of macaroons; Italian, Swiss and French.

We whipped egg whites and sugar feverishly to form a frothy merengue. I thought I had an advantage given David's size but this step proved to be quite aerobic for both of us. The sous chef explained that "aged egg whites" make for a much better merengue but are not so politically correct in the USA where we tend to be more food phobic than other nations. Notwithstanding, the key is room temperature egg whites which form a stiffer peak.

After beating the mixture over a double boiler, we added the dry ingredients; some almond flour and 10x flour. To this we added more egg white and food coloring to provide a brilliant rosy hue. We then piped the mixture onto a baking sheet where the cookies need to dry. They are very tempermental and depending on the humidity this step can take 30 minutes to several hours. Next comes the baking. Within 12 minutes the silky rounds began to rise. After cooling, we piped them with an assortment of fillings; raspberry butter cream; hazelnut cream and salted caramel.

We finished the evening selecting a few perfectly prepared French Macaroons from the case of the Dessert Truck Store. We lugged our wares home but not before eating about a dozen.

Below is the recipe which I urge you all to try. With some practice, you can impress your friends with this special treat.

White Macaroons/Macarons Blancs
Yield: approx. 30 two-inch diam. macaroon halves
125 g blanched almond flour
125 g confectioner's sugar
50 g egg whites
------
50 g egg whites
110 g granulated sugar
1. Preparing the dry ingredients: In a food processor, blend the almond flour
and confectioner's sugar until well-mixed and no lumps remain, about 20
seconds.
2. Making the meringue: In a large mixing bowl over a simmering water bath,
constantly whisk together approximately 1/3 of 110g of granulated sugar with
the egg whites. Continue to gradually add the sugar as the whites increase
in volume. Whisk until hot to the touch. Take it off the heat and continue
whisking until the meringue becomes stiff.
3. Finishing the macaroon mixture: With a rubber spatula, mix in the
1
remainder of the 50 g of egg whites into the almond flour mix. Now fold the
meringue into the almond flour mix until all of it is incorporated into the
meringue. Be sure to regularly run the spatula along the very bottom of the
bowl. The final mix should be homogenous and have a thick viscosity:
imagine the mixture is like cooling lava, gradually inching over a cold surface
and flattening ever so slightly as it comes to rest. If the mixture is too stiff,
fold in 1 tbsp of egg white at a time until you reach the proper consistency.
4. Piping the macaroons: Transfer the macaroon mixture into a piping bag
fitted with a straight tip, size #805. On a full-sized non-stick sheet pan (18” x
13”) or one lined with a Silpat, pipe silver dollar-sized discs. Keep the piping
tip about 1 1/4” away from the surface of the sheet pan to ensure rounded
tops to the macaroon discs. Set the sheet pan aside and allow the surface of
the macaroons to dry, anywhere from a half-hour to 2 hours, depending on
humidity.
5. Baking the macaroons: Preheat the oven to 300 degrees
Fahrenheit. Bake the macaroons for approximately 7 minutes, turning
the pan halfway through. The macaroons are finished when the tops
are firm and dry, and the “foamy” base is dry as well. Let cool.
6. Assembly: Gently run an offset spatula underneath each macaroon
to release it from the sheet pan or Silpat. Pair macaroons by size,
lining them up next to each other, with one of the pair sitting with the
interior (what was the bottom) facing up. Pipe your desired filling onto
that macaroon and sandwich it with the other half of the macaroon
pair.
You're done! Store them for a day in a cool and dry place or save it for
weeks by freezing them. Play around with fillings! So many things
taste and look great including butter creams, marmalades, ganaches
and even ice cream!

Truffle & Bacon Macaroni and Cheese

2011-03-23T19:39:00.000-07:00

There are few things in life more satisfying than the comfort one finds in those treasured and rare moments that one experiences when they realize that a loved one truly gets them. So much of our lives is based on trusting our instincts and having the faith that simple actions and unspoken words will resonate loudly and actually have an impact where it matters. When passion for life is combined with pure love and the positive energy that comes from nourishing people, the impact can be quite profound.

I have been blessed with amazingly incredible sons who manage to happily surprise me on a regular basis. Over the years, we have shared many special private moments in the kitchen or hanging out in a crowded apartment enjoying a fancy or simple meal with friends and loved ones. As a young mom, I take great pleasure in seeing my boys and their friends journey through life and partake in everydayness as well as celebratory moments in their own unique way.

My sons have grown up knowing my love of culinary pursuits and living life to the fullest. They also know well my life as a disciplined, overachieving, conservative lawyer in corporate America and my struggle to balance it all while exuding a certain air of confidence, ease and happiness. They know life is short, no challenge is too big to tackle and the greatest reward can be found in the pleasure of knowing they can do whatever they seek. And actually doing so. As I watch them regularly throwing caution to the wind and going for whatever might be the current object of attention, I sometimes have my doubts if they comprehend the enormity of my daily charade and truly know what drives me. Every now and then my doubt is challenged by them in a very direct but unassuming way. For example, the Kitchen Aid mixer they gifted me one birthday after many years of my pining for one. It was my favorite color, red, and is one of my most treasured gadgets.

This week it was my eldest son came for a visit under the pretense of checking in on our newly acquired puppy. I came home from work, greeted him exhausted and prepared myself to wind-down with a quite evening of TV. Before I could sit down, he began to regale me with stories of his visits to NYC museums as part of his urban architecture class, update me on his college internship and insist that I try his recent culinary experiment; truffle and bacon macaroni & cheese, a sample of which he brought me in a small ramekin.

I decided to momentarily forgo my diet. As I re-heated his treat I thought to myself that whatever calories I was about to consume would be far outweighed by the joy he would get from seeing my delight in devouring his gift. It was quite good. As I peppered him with questions about his inspiration (some interesting cheese that he saw at Trader Joe's and a recent tasting for friends) and technique (al dente pasta, a bechamel sauce consisting of butter, flour and milk, and crispy bacon bits), I was stuck with pride that he absorbed so much from our unspoken exchanges and truly got me. I thought he might be buttering me up for something but the more I probed the more I realized that his motives were simple and pure; to showcase to me his talents and to nourish me with food and love. That night, I found comfort in so many ways.

Bistro Inspired Birthday Brunch

2011-03-13T18:50:00.000-07:00

Today, I celebrated a belated birthday of my older sister, Monique, by hosting a brunch. Today's brunch was inspired by bistro fare; simple comfort food. The menu consisted of a smoky paprika tomato soup with a dollop of tangy creme fraiche and crunchy whole wheat croutons, massive shrimp poached in a liquid containing onions, garlic, orange, orange zest, coriander and pepper corns, steamed mussels with a curry mustard mayo dipping sauce; a warm wilted spinach salad dressed with shallots, champagne mustard and olive oil and finely chopped hard boiled eggs; crusty grilled gruyere and arugula sandwiches accompanied by grilled asparagus and hand-cut french fries.

We finished our meal with a rich chocolate mousse cake and french pressed coffee. It was a delectable day.

Creamy Smoky Sweet Potato Soup

2011-02-01T09:08:00.000-08:00

The threat of yet another winter storm inspired me to prepare a warm, hearty and nutritious soup. I had boiled and mashed several garnet sweet potatoes a few days before and had reserved the cooking liquid for then unspecified purposes. I also had leftover coconut milk from yesterday's Asian dinner. Why not simply combine these in the blender? I added smoked paprika and cayenne to balance the natural sweetness of the sweet potatoes and coconut milk. And a squeeze of fresh lime and chopped cilantro to brighten the dish. As the creaminess of the coconut milk melted on my tongue, the smokiness of the paprika and the heat of the cayenne lingered just a bit longer. The nutritional value of the beta carotene laden sweet potatoes and the heart healthy oil in the coconut milk heightened my enjoyment of the soup. If you reduce or omit the cayenne, it's a perfect way to introduce healthy eating to your children in a not so obvious way.

Not bad for a five minute meal.

Hearty Chai Infused Oatmeal

2011-01-20T01:39:00.001-08:00

I found myself wide awake in the wee hours of the morning. Perhaps it was the full moon shining brightly through my window? Unable to find comfort in a long hot bath or mug of chamomile tea, I found myself pacing the kitchen staring blankly into the pantry. A forgotten box of oatmeal caught my eye.

As I brought the requisite amount of water to boil, I scanned my spice rack for a cinnamon stick. I was all out but I found some ground cinnamon and a number of other warming spices; cardamon, cloves and ginger. It reminded me of chai tea. I tossed all of the spices in with the water (you could use cream, soy, rice or almond milk too), simmered for 10 minutes (you could do less) and then strained the liquid to remove the spices. I returned it to the pot to boil, added some raisins and then the oatmeal. In another five minutes the oatmeal was done. The texture was a bit toothsome just as I like it. The raisins added the right amount of sweetness (nothing is worse than clawing sugariness found in many breakfast foods). You could also add dried apricots or figs. The spices were very subtle but present.

As I sit eating my bowl of comfort, I gaze peacefully at the moon very content but hoping that I might steal perhaps an hour more sleep before setting off to conquer the day.

Concord Grape Sorbet and Ginger Butternut Squash Ice Cream

2010-12-30T18:59:00.001-08:00

I rarely cook dishes that require me to follow a recipe rigidly. That includes desserts. I'd prefer to make a cobbler or pie than bake a cake or cookies. I can tinker with ingredients and techniques without worrying too much about the outcome. But every now and then I stumble upon an idea that involves techniques with which I am less familiar. Ice cream and sorbet making fall into this category.

I thought it would be fun to try to incorporate vegetables into a dessert using ice cream as the medium. Roasting the butternut squash enhanced its sweetness. The ginger provided a nice savory compliment. A scoop of tart concord grape sorbet completed the dessert. A cool and creamy celebration of Fall.

Ginger Butternut Squash Ice Cream

18 fl oz heavy cream
2 tbsp finely chopped, fresh ginger
4 egg yolks
4½ oz sugar
4½ oz roasted butternut squash, puréed
1 tsp lemon juice

Fill a large bowl with ice and a little water.
Place the cream and ginger into a saucepan and bring to the boil.
Remove the saucepan from the heat and cover, leaving the cream to infuse for 30 minutes.
After 30 minutes return the pan to the heat and bring back to the boil.
Place the egg yolks and sugar in a bowl and whisk together.
Pour in some of the hot cream mixture into the egg yolks and whisk continuously to combine.
Pour the egg yolk mixture into the saucepan containing the rest of the cream and continue cooking gently for 3-4 minutes, or until the mixture coats the back of a spoon.
Add the butternut squash to the cream mixture and, stir in throughly.
Place the saucepan into the iced water bath, stirring occasionally, until chilled.
Add the lemon juice to the cream and strain through a fine-mesh sieve.
Pour the mixture into an ice cream machine and churn until smooth. Keep frozen until ready to use.

Concord Grape Sorbet

2 cups chilled concord grapes (about 3/4 pound)
1/4 cup superfine sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

In a blender purée sorbet ingredients until sugar is dissolved, about 3 minutes, and pour through a fine sieve into a bowl, pressing on solids. Discard solids and freeze sorbet in an ice-cream maker.
Transfer each sorbet as made to an airtight container and in freezer harden until firm. Sorbets may be made 1 week ahead and kept frozen, covered.

Slow Food- Lamb Shoulder Worth the Wait

2010-12-28T21:41:00.000-08:00

It took several days of frigid temperatures, a bout of culinary laziness and a defrosted piece of lamb shoulder in need of cooking for me to finally take my slow cooker out of hibernation. Not before some deliberate debate as my slow cooker resides tucked away in a closet off of my kitchen that is accessible only after moving our garbage can, recycling bins, broom, dust pan and mop, and a rolling metal cart on which I store extra plates, bowls and other catering supplies. The mental gymnastics involved in this routine is enough to wear me down and defeatedly resort to our stack of "to go" menus which is conveniently located in a kitchen drawer.

But today the thought of tender lamb shoulder provided the requisite energy to complete the task. I had hand-picked the meat from Allen Farm on Martha's Vineyard and reasoned that I, too, could devote the time to prepare it with an equivalent amount of love and care that went into raising and slaughtering it.

I browned the lamb shoulder and then set it into the slow cooker with some carmelized onions, figs and other seasonings which I brought back from Turkey. I found a spare bottle of winter ale in the refrigerator and thought it would impart the warmth of the season while providing moisture in which to cook the meat. After several hours, I came home a robust smell that enveloped the apartment. The lamb was perfectly cooked; beyond fork tender. I simmered some rice in the broth in which the lamb cooked, steamed some carrots and decided to serve them in their pure state rather than cook them with the lamb as I would usually do. I made an ale gravy and spooned it over the roast. The meal was worth the wait!

Holiday Dumplings

2010-12-28T21:09:00.000-08:00

Wonton skins are a great medium to channel your creative energy and jazz up your meals. I recently found myself staring blankly into my refrigerator overstocked with quart containers of holiday leftovers. My eyes quickly scanned the ingredients as my brain whirled with ideas for a quick snack. I was definitely not in the mood for another plate of the standard fare which no doubt would include yams, cranberry sauce and scraps of poultry or ham.

I spied an open package of wonton skins and a tightly wrapped piece of smoked duck breast both of which were on their last legs. There was also drying sage leaves. I knew immediately that I would make pot stickers! I set off to assemble the ingredients...pureed yams, cranberry sauce and smoked duck breast. I layered these into a wonton skin, wet the edges with water and pinched the edges together. I browned some butter and sage in a pan and added the dumplings. After they had browned and stuck to the pan, I poured in a small amount of water and covered the pan to steam the dumplings.

Within a few minutes, I had a scrumptious snack, reminiscent of the holidays but with a twist. The crisp, sage and butter-laden wonton served as a convenient savory package for the creamy, slightly sweet yam puree which was balanced against the tart cranberries and smoky bit of duck breast. A perfect one-bite treat!

Upcoming Class at Whole Foods

2010-10-30T05:14:00.000-07:00

Thursday, November 11th
Thanksgiving En Papillote

6:00 pm - 9:00 pm

Demonstration and Hands-On, $60
Don’t have a lot of time in the kitchen preparing for the holidays? Gain the confidence to create your own signature dishes, and put a twist on traditional favorites that can be made upon a moment’s notice. Let Chef Kiki Homer show you how to master the classic technique of cooking en papillote—gently “oven steaming” foods for moist, tender results. Learn tips for elegant entertaining that can accommodate the busiest of schedules, and prepare dishes that are healthful, flavorful, and versatile enough to satisfy all tastes.
On the Menu: Harvest Vegetables with Citrus, Ginger, and Cumin En Papillote; Wild Rice with Cranberries and Pecans En Papillote; Turkey Breast with Brown Sage Butter En Papillote; Cider-and-Maple-Infused Pork Tenderloin En Papillote; Brandied Apple, Pear, and Cranberries En Papillote.
Instructor: Kiki Homer, Certified Health Counselor and Culinary Coach
www.cheffancypans.blogspot.com
REGISTER HERE

Imitation is the Greatest Form of Flattery

2010-10-17T23:03:00.000-07:00

I hosted a dinner party for two of my siblings, two of their best friends and three of their daughters, one of whom is my neice. I've known each of them or they've known me for all of my life. So it was a very intimate and celebratory gathering. They were all here to support me in my culinary endeavors and I was delighted to share with them treasures from my recent travels to Turkey, the Greek Islands, the Hudson Valley, Martha's Vineyard and the Union Square Green Market.

My official prep work for the dinner began several weeks ago when we officially set the date but much of the creative energy was expended over the course of the final three or four days as I finalized the menu. I knew that it was subject to change depending on what the green market had to offer and what I would be in the mood to prepare.

A few of my dishes were inspired by Mas(farmhouse), the restaurant at which I interned during culinary school and where now, one evening each week, I am re-energized as I swap my blackberry, stack of legal documents and stress of a corporate job for chef whites and a place at the garde manger station. My blackberry actually sits in my pocket but, oddly enough, the moment I enter the kitchen my compulsion to check it every thirty seconds vanishes. A sign that this is what I was actually meant to do?

The menu was ambitious but I wanted to push myself and create an experience that would not be soon forgotten. It was a success!

Kiki's Place
Sister and Daughter's Dinner
10.17.10

Cocktail Hour

Specialty Cocktail by Sherali
Prosecco with St. Germaine and Hudson Valley Black Currant Liquor

Hors D’oeuvres

Smoked Duck and Turkish Fig and Apricot Chutney Bruschetta
Fresh Ricotta and Pepper & Garlic Oil Bruschetta
Cremini Mushroom Caps with Spinach, Feta and Sun dried Tomatoes
Smoked Salmon and Creme Fraiche in Phyllo Cups

Six-Course Seasonal Chef Tasting Menu

Amuse Bouche- Shrimp Cerviche with Heirloom Cherry Tomatoes and Basil Oil

Martha’s Vineyard Corn Soup with Seared Scallop and Marinated Chanterelle Mushrooms

Heirloom Tomatoes on Parmesan & Pepper Cracker with Caramelized Onions, Basil Oil, Black Olive Tapenade and Toasted, Balsamic-Marinated Pine Nuts

Martha’s Vineyard Smoked Blue Fish with Beet Rounds, Horseradish Creme Fraiche, Cukes & Watercress & Pea Shoots

Truffled Wild Mushroom Risotto served in a Roasted Jack be Little Pumpkin

Tilapia with Wine, Lemon Butter and Caper Sauce served over Sauteed Spinach

Beef Fillet with Roasted Seasonal Squashed, Peppers & Shallots and Potatoes with a dollop of Cream and Paddle fish Caviar

Dessert
Cool Lemon Verbena Soup with Tangy Cranberry and Raspberry Compote
Sweet Potato Flan with Hazelnut Biscotti Crumble
Sweet Blueberry Corn Cake with Corn Ice Cream
French Pressed Coffee

Served with Love by Kiki and Sherali

Reminiscing about Turkey

2010-10-01T22:06:00.001-07:00

It's been about a month since I returned from my summer adventure to Turkey and Greece. Since my return, I've had the nagging desire to apply everything that I learned during these amazing two weeks. But the realities of life in NYC as a busy mom and full-time corporate lawyer and everything else has somehow interfered. Nevertheless, I find myself constantly reminiscing about this time. Some of the most memorable food moments were the simplest. While dining at a restaurant, Ciya, on the Asian side of Turkey I was introduced to cooking that celebrates the use of ingredients from Anatolia; aromatic red peppers, pistachios, chickpeas, olives and pomegranate molasses. The most surprising dish was a green olive salad. I recreated this dish for a potluck supper last night with a group of true goddesses. It's simplicity is sublime. Below is a recipe from our local host, Selin, which I adapted:

Green Olive Salad
1 cup green olives
1 tomato, diced
4-5 green onions
1/2 cup flat leaf parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon walnuts, chopped (I omitted)
1 tablespoon pomegranate sauce (I used cherry licquor and agave)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
red chili flakes (I forgot these)
olive oil (forgot this too)
salt to taste (the olives were salty enough)

In a medium bowl, combine all.

I served the condiment with a foccacia-like bread which I found at Whole Foods. The dish received rave reviews. I also prepared an eggplant dish. I decided that I could not convey my Turkish experience without including some sort of eggplant dish. Eggplant appeared at every meal. By day three of our trip, I thought I had my fill but each restaurant served it in a different way and I tried all of them. During our cooking class with Selin, she taught us a simple preparation which I decided to share with my friends.

Tomato, Onion and Garlic Stuffed Eggplant
6 medium eggplant, long thin variety
4 tablespoons olive oil
3 medium onions, sliced
3 tomatoes, skinned and chopped
8 cloves of garlic, finely sliced
salt and sugar to taste
juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup chopped parsley

Preheat oven to 400.
With a sharp peeler, partialy peel the eggplant in alternate vertical strips from stem to base, leaving the stalk intact. Cut a deep slit lengthwise in each eggpland, without cutting through. Put the eggplant in a bowl of salted water for approximately 30 minutes, using a plate as a weight to hold them under the surface.

Heat the olive oil. Sautee the onions til translucent. Add the tomatoes, garlic, salt, sugar, lemon juice and chopped parsley.

Drain the eggplant and squeeze dry. Heat a little more olive oil and lightly brown eggplant on all sides. Place them in an oven-safe dish. Spoon the tomato and onion filling into the slits of the eggplant and pour any surplus over them. Mix a little more sugar and salt together with hot water and any remaining olive oil. Pour this over the eggplant and bake for 45 minutes or until the eggplant is tender. Garnish with parsley.

Guest Chef at Natural Gourmet Institute for Food and Health-9/24/10

2010-09-12T07:55:00.000-07:00

Join me as I Guest Chef at The Natural Gourmet Institute for Food and Health's Friday Night Dinner Program

An Argentine Parillada
Friday, September 24, 2010

Appetizer
Arugula Salad with Corn, Charred Chayote and Pickled Radishes and Shallots
Baked Empanada (ground tempeh, currants, onions)

Entree
Argentine Parillada (grill):

Skewers of Grilled Baby Portobella, Squash and Seasonal Vegetables served with a Red Pepper Chimichurri Sauce and Green Chimichurri Sauce

Herbed Red and White Quinoa with Crispy Lime Chickpeas

Garlicky Broccoli Rabe

Dessert
Trio of Grapes Sorbet with Roasted Grape Tart

Prix Fixe: $40.00 (includes tax)
6:30 p.m. seating
BYOB
Reservations required: 212-645-5170 (ext. 0)
Visa, Master Card and American Express accepted

Creamed Corn and Curve Balls

2010-09-11T04:35:00.000-07:00

Sometimes life throws you a huge curve ball. There are many ways to respond. Today, I will cook. I wavered about this choice but as I opened up the Dining & Wine section of the NYT's today, there was no doubt that this is what I was meant to do today. There was a picture of tomato slices topped with beautiful, golden kernels of corn, pine nuts and cheese. The author had experimented with many recipes and settled on one with Gorgonzola cheese which sounds delightful.

This instantly brought to the forefront of my mind a recipe that I've been mulling over for nearly a decade. A simple creamy curried corn dish that my brother prepared one year for a Thanksgiving dinner that he hosted. We were both in our 20's and I was fairly impressed with what he had whipped up. I admit that some of the healthy competitive juices were probably flowing as I wondered "where in the world did he get the idea to combine kernels of corn, philly cream cheese and curry powder?" I was supposed to be the budding culinary genius. Right?

I was partially relieved to learn that the red and white checkered Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook was his inspiration. I am still in awe and give him big kudos for having selected the recipe. As I write, the cookbook is laid out on my couch opened to page 396...

Today, I will cook. As an ode to my brother, I too will be experimenting with creamed corn! Or maybe it's best not to mess with an original?

Breaking Fast

2010-08-19T22:22:00.000-07:00

I have always had a fascination with rituals, particularly those that involve food and religion. One can intimately come to know people and cultures by sharing a traditional family meal or partaking in a special holiday tradition. One of my favorite experiences this year was participating in a Passover Seder about which I previously blogged here.

This week in Istanbul, I was able to witness culinary, cultural and religious moments of Muslims who were observing the month-long Ramadan fast; a time for modesty, sacrifice and reflection. It also seemed to be a time in which families and friends gathered for hours of quality time; a notion so precious and rare in the fast paced, high-tech, material world in which so many of us live.

Each morning at around 4:30 a.m., I was woken by the bellowing echo of the first of several calls to prayer coming from the Blue Mosque which was situated directly across from our hotel. At first a bit startling and deafening, I quickly began to appreciate the melodic chants of the Iman each comprised of a number of verses from the Koran which varies depending on the time of day.

The first call is a wake up call of sorts and is relatively long lasting approximately 10 minutes. Observers arise and prepare a meal to be eaten before sunrise when the fasting begins. In some towns, drummers supplement to calls from the mosque, ensuring that all are awake. The call to prayer before sunset, which also announces that breaking fast may begin, is much shorter; I suppose so that those who have sacrificed food and water can start to replenish their nourishment more quickly.

Where I was staying, families gathered in parks much before sunset. The kerchiefed mothers and daughters watched over the many bags of food; fruits, nuts, bread and other home-cooked meals. The children played in the square each evening tossing toys in the air and spinning tops on the ground. Fathers and sons joined. Each evening the observant left the area well after midnight quietly parading home to rest before they would begin their fast again.

This evening, we were invited to dine at Asitane Restaurant. The restaurant serves imperial Ottoman cuisine, incorporating Central Asian, Anatolian, Middle Eastern and Balkan flavours, resulting from the intensive research undertaken at three palace kitchens (Dolmabahce, Topkapi and Edirne) to test and recreate long-forgotten imperial dishes, whose recipes were traditionally kept secret. We sat in an outdoor courtyard eager for the evening call to prayer and drummer so that we could begin our 16th-century royal feast. Substantially all of the restaurants patrons would break fast together. I would learn that most would start with a glass of water to quench the day's thirst. Next, some figs, olives and other small meze items.
A warm or cold soup would typically follow. I selected a cold yogurt soup with a drizzle of mint oil. It was creamy, yet light. The mint brought brightness to the dish and cut the tanginess of the yogurt.

There were several entrees to choose from but the restaurant staff treated the meat-eaters among us to a trio of lamb; simply grilled; one with a fig and date compote and another that was stewed with eggplant, tomatoes and onions and served atop something that resembled risotto. .

We ended the evening on a sweet note with a special Ramadan dessert made of rice phyllo, cream and assorted spices which reminded me of a noodle pudding. We had the pleasure to meet the kitchen staff responsible for our wonderful meal as well as the owner who regaled us in stories of his passion for Turkish history and food.

Traditional Turkish Dinner at Selin's

2010-08-17T22:43:00.000-07:00

On our first evening in Istanbul, we were invited into the home of Selin, our local host. Selin has worked in the tourism business for years and several years ago transformed her passion for food, hospitality and travel into a small business, Turkish Flavours. Turkish Flavours provides hands-on authentic culinary experiences consisting of dinners in Selin's home, cooking classes and local market tours.

Jet-lagged but eager to begin consuming the local culture, we arrived at Selin's home. Certain parts of the neighborhood reminded us of a bit of Madison Avenue with high end boutiques and modern urban specialty shoppes. The grand apartment building had an old world feel. A small wrought-iron gated elevator located at the center of the winding staircase ascended several floors to Selin's warm and inviting home. Elaborate, traditional Turkish artwork and decorations dotted the apartment. As we settled in, Selin greeted us with a glass of sparkling wine from Kavaklidere Wines and several freshly-prepared appetizers consisting of a fruits and cheese, a mackerel roe spread and salt-cured tuna simply dressed with red onion, lemon and olive oil.
Selin laid out a bountiful buffet upon which we descended. Delightful aromas wafted through the kitchen. My eyes scanned the dishes and I did not know where to begin. I decided it was best just to dig in and try a bit of everything. This became my mantra for the entire trip. Just dig in.

Here are some of the dishes we had:
Aubergine

Fava Bean Puree

Okra
Mackerel

Turkish Pastrami

Phyllo Custard with Figs and Vanilla Icecream

Figs and Family

2010-08-16T14:46:00.000-07:00

It was our first full day in Istanbul, Turkey. The thick, languid, humidity forced me to ratchet my normal tempo down...way, way down. It was tiring just thinking about getting up from my shaded perch across from the famous Blue Mosque to saunter back to our hotel. The notion of air conditioning lured me back like a Sirens Song. I have quickly come to appreciate the relativity of coolness and air conditioning. Perhaps the A type, crazed, multi-tasking, blackberry addicted New Yorker is just too overheated and requires much more than my Mediterranean brethren? I am hoping that by tomorrow I can manage to walk and breathe without panting and longing for a mid block nap!
I understand there's a heat wave and, thankfully, it's not usually this hot. Even so, what I've experienced so far is well worth the sweat. It's Ramadan, a very holy period for Muslims. They fast from sun up to sun down; refraining not only from eating but from drinking all liquids. And here I am knoshing at every corner and thinking about all the undiscovered culinary delights lie before me. Unabashed gluttony of gastronomical proportions. Is there a twelve-step program for this? I think I need help!

Perhaps a few more days in Turkey, watching families gather before sun set? Spreading picnic blankets and arranging an assortment of fruits, nuts and other treats and enjoying one another's company as they break fast into the wee hours of the morning. And another few watching children run around the square and parks that surround the beautiful historic buildings tossing flickering lighted toys into the air as Turkish ice cream drips from their hands and chins? And another few consuming rich, melodic stories that incorporate family, food and friends? This might be the cure.
I will leave you with one that I heard this evening as we ate dinner at the warm (environment and yes, temperature) home of our local host, Selin. Several guests joined our dinner. As we marveled at the size of the figs that our host presented for desert, one of the local guests shared a sweet memory of eating figs with her grandmother. And how her grandmother would take fresh walnuts, shell them and soak them in water to loosen the bitter skins. Her grandmother would sprinkle the walnuts over the fig and eat them with a drizzle of honey.
The guest's wanted to introduce and share her love for figs to her daughter. Who, like many children, resisted this new food. The guest's eyes sparkled as she reminicesed about telling her daughter that she need not eat the figs but encouraging her to place her ear next to her cheek as she she ate the figs and walnuts. She said her daughter giggled when she heard the loud crunch of the walnuts followed by the smaller crunching sound of the seeds that dotted the figs. Her daughter just listened and giggled. I don't know if her daughter eats figs now as a tween but her mom confessed that her daughter still giggles with her (in private) when ever she retells the story.

Martha's Vineyard Hospitality

2010-07-05T18:20:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, we hosted an impromptu get-together for five friends of one of our sons. These guys are like sons to us to and most have spent time over the past six years at our home away from home. This Fourth of July weekend the guys decided to get their own house with a bunch of other friends. Our home was much quieter than normal for this time of year but the walls quickly began to echo with raucous laughter that was oh so familiar. We had a delicious meal of grilled, thinly-sliced, tender New York strip steak, stewed black beans, guacamole and salsa wrapped in tortillas and served with cilantro brown rice and local corn on the cob. Initially, I intended to serve breakfast burritos but I had less than an hour to prepare the meal and they arrived slightly after brunch time. I like to think that as they snacked on the care package I sent them home with, their hearts remained as full of love and warm memories as their bellies were full from our meal.

Anyway, all this is an aside to the focus of this post. On the way home to prepare the meal, we stopped at the market for ice. Every store seemed to be out as everyone was packing coolers to take to the beach on this beautifully, sweltering Fourth of July. While on line, we chatted with a local gentleman. Our conversation continued as we hopped into our respective cars. Just as we were about to pull off, he asked if we like quahogs. Before we could reply, he reached into his back seat and pulled out a plastic bag filled with clams that he had just gathered. We were delighted and, once again, taken aback by the hospitality that we find on Martha's Vineyard.

This is not the first time we received a gift of freshly-caught seafood. There was the time we ran into a friend's brother in the Stop N Shop parking lot and he gave us some squid. And the time our friend, Mike, came over with quart containers filled with bay scallops that he had just gathered after a storm washed a bountiful onto the edges of the Edgartown Bay. Or the time we pulled into our driveway to find Mike in our yard with a wooden plank, a knife and a freshly-caught bluefish that he skillfully filleted and then grilled on our BBQ. Or the time, Mike came over with a steaming pot of seafood boullabaise. We sat around our counter, each with a spoon in hand hungrily consuming his creation.

Tonight, tired after a long day and nearing the end of our stay on MV, I decided to toss the quahogs on the grill. I prepared a simple dipping sauce consisting of melted butter, minced garlic, chopped cilantro and white wine. It was the perfect meal.

When Life was Simple

2010-07-04T16:22:00.001-07:00

Lately, I've been having more and more moments when I crave something very simple and fresh. I suspect it has a lot to do with leading a life that has increasingly complex, especially over the course of the last year. Between a stressful career and the unexpected twists and turns that come with parenthood, it's quite easy to let even the task of preparing a meal become overwhelming.

The featured salad was inspired during a quiet moment at the end of a very long day. I reflected on what I hoped our sons would take away and hold sacred as they create the path for their own life journey's; simplicity, celebration of life and health and a great sense of nourishment. With that, I found several local ingredients in my bare refrigerator; some radishes, cucumbers, asparagus and herbs. After thinly slicing and finely chopping them, I tossed the ingredients with some extra virgin olive oil and freshly squeezed lemon. The acid added just the right amount of brightness to my meal. I ate my meal alone. Satisfied and filled with hope of a future for ourselves and our sons filled with the same amount of brightness.

Gruyere and Parmesan Risotto with Asparagus and Crispy Prosciutto

2010-07-03T20:25:00.000-07:00

Whenever I'm dieting, I like to eat vicariously through my friends and loved ones. And so, on my second day back on a modified Weight Watchers regime, I decided to make David a dish of creamy risotto. I had blanched asparagus spears from a healthy dinner the previous evening. I also had several slices of prosciutto which were intended to be wrapped around figs stuffed with an herbed goat cheese and brought as an appetizer to a friend's weekend BBQ. I fried the prosciutto until crispy and golden brown as a crunch element for the risotto. The figs are sitting in my freezer as I write. I did make two other, simpler dishes which played second fiddle to the delectable food that Dorette prepared. Never mind that I stretched the notion of "modified Weight Watchers regime" beyond its limits that night.....at least it was lo-carb, except for the plate of mac and cheese and red-velvet cake.

Anyway, I was quite impressed with my will power in making the risotto and only testing it about 10 times, small spoonfuls of course.

Risotto is quite easy to make and the attention that it requires is not as great as one might imagine. Simple stirring every five minutes or so for approximately 30 minutes is all that it takes. I find it is quite therapeutic. Even though I prepared mine while participating in a work-related conference call. The multi-tasking paid off and by the time my call was over, I had a satisfying meal for David. There was so much that I texted my sons and implored them to drop by for a taste. As an extra teaser, I let them know that I had also prepared a bit of Chilean sea bass.

To prepare the risotto, I sauteed shallots and garlic and then added 1 1/2 cups of risotto and toasted it for several minutes. Next, I added one cup of white wine (leftover from my son's birthday party). I stirred occasionally until the risotto absorbed the wine. I imagined each parched grain slowly becoming intoxicated by the wine. Once the wine was absorbed, I added 1/2 cups of vegetable stock which I kept simmering on a separate burner. I continued stirring and adding liquid once the rice had absorbed it until I had used about five cups of stock. The risotto was perfectly done; toothsome and creamy without the addition of any dairy.

I then turned off the heat. Added a healthy portion of freshly grated Gruyere and Parmesan cheese until melted. I stirred in slightly-tender stalks of blanched asparagus and topped the dish with crispy prosciutto which I had previously fried.

Catering for the Real Housewives of New Jersey

2010-05-23T16:50:00.000-07:00

Today, I catered an event hosted by one of my dearest friends from law school, Katherine. The menu was partially inspired by a dinner that we had a few weeks ago at The Mermaid Oyster Bar in the West Village near NYU Law School following an Alumni Association Board Meeting. I ordered fish tacos which were fairly decent. The fish was grilled rather than battered and deep fried as it is sometimes prepared. I discussed with Katherine how these tacos compared to ones which I had prepared for family and friends in the past with much success.

A week or so later, she requested a proposal for the event she would be hosting; a gathering of eight women from her neighboring community in New Jersey who all belong to the same book club. These women meet on a monthly basis rotating who hosts the event. I'm told that the first rule of the book club is that one does not have to read the book. So I was a bit surprised that Katherine seem perplexed that none of the women today wanted to discuss the book. Rather, between raucous bouts of laughter emanating from the living room, they demanded to know when more appetizers, margaritas and champagne would be served. It warmed my soul to know that the menu was well-received. As I chuckled in the kitchen, I imagined that this scene could easily be an out take of reality show, The Real Housewives of New Jersey. Except, everyone was very civil, deeply enjoyed one another's company and were all professional women whose conversations were sprinkled with definite points of view on a variety of matters of relative importance.

Back to the menu. I proposed a number of hors d'oeuvres and entree items. Katherine, who typically exudes the same type A personality as I, was relatively at ease throughout the menu planning process. We agreed upon the following:

Peruvian Tilapia Cerviche with Crispy Plaintain Chip
Yellow Tomato Gazpacho garnished with Smoky Grilled Shrimp
Assorted Vegetarian Quesadillas (Poblano, Carmelized Onions and Goat Cheese) (Calabacita: Sauteed summer squash, corn, onions and poblano and Monterrey Jack Cheese) served with Adobo Crema
Chicken, Corn and Pepper Empanadas served with Mango and Pineapple Salsa and Chipotle Tomato Salsa

The entree consisted of:

Fish Tacos served in soft corn tortillas with assorted toppings (Shredded Red Cabbage, Carmelized Onions and Avocado Cream)
Shredded Adobo Chicken Tacos served in hard shells with assorted toppings (Shredded Lettuce, Fresh Tomatoes and Queso Blanco)
Cilantro Infused Brown Rice
Spicy, Stewed Heirloom Mexican Beans

I began my prep late yesterday procrastinating a bit as I struggled to jot down all the important details one needs when catering an event. Rough drafts of the recipes, determining portion size, itemizing all the ingredients that I would need to purchase and where I would buy them, in what order would I prep the item, what could be made ahead and what would need to be made a la minute. And lastly, how would I would plate everything? Thanks to my buddy, Ellen, from culinary school, the tasks quickly began to take shape. I left her apartment around midnight toting several heavy bags containing the freshly-made empanadas, makings of the gazpacho, fillings for the quesadillas, shredded adobo chicken and perfectly diced components of the cerviche.

When I got home, I prepared a detailed timeline of what I would need to do in the morning. I decided to get up by 7 am to begin preparing the Spicy, Stewed Heirloom Mexican Beans and Cilantro Infused Brown Rice. I would dash to Whole Foods by 8 am when it opened and pick up a few last minute items and then return to finish off the menu.

It went without a hitch. The event was a true success. Ellen was an excellent sous chef, as always and Katherine was the most gracious host, tending to all her guests and periodically checking in on me to make sure I had everything I needed. When I arrived home, I was greeted by one of my sons and was able to quickly satisfy his hunger by sharing with him some of the treats that I had prepared. We looked at the photos I had taken and settled into a relaxing evening.

Burgers and Zen

2010-05-21T16:57:00.000-07:00

Today was a wonderfully perfect day. A few days ago, I got an unexpected offer to go to see the Dalai Lama at Radio City Music Hall. The invitation came at time in my life when I was feeling completely overwhelmed with work and a feeling of stress that, at times, can become all-consuming. Contemplating the multitude of challenges and choices that lie ahead, each challenge and choice feels so uniquely critical that it can paralyze you with fear leading to inaction, limbo and regret. Unfortunately, the feelings were becoming more common and I figured that, once again, I would just suck it up, focus on all that's good in my life and just continue as if they did not exist. Fortunately, at this moment, I feel like I'm floating effortlessly on the crest of a powerful, frothy wave. The persistent, treacherous undercurrents that nearly exhausted my body, mind and soul seem to have dissipated; they have been transformed into a gentle, almost soothing, ebb and flow.

The Dalai Lama spoke of tireless effort as it related to the study or mastery of wisdom. He emphasized that study is difficult but you must make the effort to learn. Tireless effort eventually becomes easier. "If something is worthwhile, make an effort consistently." "Have the courage." "If one clings or grasps to something, there is no liberation." "If we do not take advantage [of life] now, how will such a perfect opportunity ever come about again?" "Question the validity of our everyday perceptions." "Whatever goal you want, the method should be realistic."

The message was intense but in the hours that followed the lecture my mind continued to process. The only distraction was my rumbling stomach and rapidly descending blood sugar level warning me that I needed to re-fuel. The periodic tidbits of clarity that were so energizing could no longer sustain me. I wanted some grub. I felt slightly conflicted. Having just spent hours with the Dalai Lama, I felt I should be craving vegetables, whole grains and hearty greens.

But I didn't. I wanted real comfort food so I was thoroughly pleased to find myself at the Burger Joint nestled in a back corner of Le Parker Meridian Hotel in NYC. I didn't go away for college but this spot is supposed to be like a cheap burger place in a college town. I didn't even know it existed. We patiently waited on the long line winding out the door of the Burger Joint. It led to a counter where you place your order as you peer at the pass-through to get glimpses of the cooks working the grill only a few feet away.

I was annoyed that I heeded the warnings on the Radio City Music Hall website that cameras were prohibited. I knew I wanted to blog about this place. With my blackberry in hand, I focused on the sign that hung above the counter containing fairly simple instructions for ordering: 1) hamburger or cheeseburger; 2) rare, medium or well and 3) tomatoes, lettuce, onions, ketchup, mayo, mustard or "the works".
While scanning the small, dark room accessing who might be close to finishing their meal thereby freeing up a table, I simultaneously experienced a bit of vicarious deja vu of the Soup Nazi Seinfeld episode. I was not about to screw up by not following the very clear instructions. Cheeseburger, rare, the works. That's it.

Hungry diners filled the few tables and booths chowing down or waiting for their orders to be called out. Shirt sleeves rolled up, corporate ties tossed over shoulders, elbows on tables, hands reaching across a table for the red and yellow ketchup and mustard plastic squirt bottles and salt and pepper shakers. As they littered the table with crumpled, condiment-stained napkins, sipped on the sugary sweetness of a classic cola and searched the ripped open, grease-spotted brown paper bag in vain for the last french fry, there was a sense of contentment amongst the diners. When our order finally arrived, I was already feeling a bit of zen.

With a full belly and the warmth of the beautiful sunshine, I was ready to take another small step on my path to enlightenment. I was guided by a statement by the Dalai Lama, "the body may be old but the mind should stay young." Although I had a blissful morning and felt very rejuvenated, my body still felt some residual, latent aches and pains reminding me of what a mother f*cker prolonged stress can be. No worries as I quickly discovered Spa Merge just a few doors away from Le Parker Meridian. I desperately wanted a massage but my spontaneous impatience led me to take the first available appointment; a 45 minute lemongrass whole-body scrub. The minutes ticked away too quickly. Although wonderful, it was not enough. I needed to continue to drench myself in the fragrant, calming scents and sounds wafting throughout the spa. So I decided to treat myself to an hour-long facial. I caught myself snoring once or twice and knew that I had made the right decision.

When the treatment was over, both my mind and my body felt young. I was led back to my personal "suite". A simple shot glass containing a fresh berry smoothie and an almond biscotti-like cookie awaited my arrival. Sitting in the glow of a single candle, nibbling on my treats in a comfy robe, I felt a true sense of euphoria. Enlightenment. Zen.

Supermarket Envy

2010-05-19T20:08:00.001-07:00

Those who know me well get my passion for grocery shopping or just spending hours strolling up and down the aisles perusing the shelves in awe at all the different products. Not all stores are equal; Whole Foods tops the list. It's closest competitor in my opinion is Wegman's, a chain that I toured while visiting family in Virginia. If there was one in NYC, I would definitely be torn. But, I think I'd be swayed to remain loyal to the Whole Foods in Chelsea because of the impact that it's had in shaping my life and culinary pursuits. I've visited others and just don't feel the same connection.

Today, I experienced a bit of supermarket envy when I visited the Whole Foods in Darien, CT during a lunch break with some of my colleagues. Several traffic cops directed the slow moving traffic into the parking lot. As we meandered towards the entrance, we could not help but notice the beautifully manicured landscape and the architecture and design of the store which had details that one would expect to find in the surrounding residential neighborhood. Employees who greeted customers at the entrance were framed by a background of colorful, fresh produce.

The store was crowded and there was a lot of hoopla as it was the Grand Opening Celebration. There were local news reporters, shoppers with cameras, food demos and free samples of tasty items, such as sushi, sauteed garlicky greens and freshly baked bread. As we wove in and out of the neatly stocked aisles enveloped by soothing music, I could not resist pointing out the items that I love most as well as items that I did not recall seeing at my Whole Foods Market in Chelsea. The hen of the woods mushrooms, baskets of assorted peppers, entire aisle of bulk items such as beans and grains, an endless assortment of prepared foods and these over sized buttery, golden brown soft pretzels that lured me to the bakery section. For a moment, I felt a bit of jealousy. It grew with each bite of the pretzel. The jealousy did not dissipate as quickly as the pretzel. My emotions intensified further as I neared the sushi counter and sampled several pieces of sushi. I was completely in my element; gazing at the many sushi chefs busily but calmly creating food for the eager and curious customers. Can one simultaneously experience envy and zen?

I think not. My state of zen was abruptly altered as I caught a peripheral glimpse at several sushi chefs standing at another kiosk masterfully slicing mounds of delicate tuna into more manageable portions. The kiosk was adorned with a head of a tuna. It was huge. I imagined that the whole fish was probably several hundred pounds. It's clear eyes stared back at me beckoning me to reach out and touch it. So I did. It wasn't slimy as I suspected it would be. I convinced my colleague to take the picture that appears above on her iphone as I knew I wanted to blog about my experience.

As we drove back to the office, fairly satiated from our nibblings and camaraderie, I had a moment of self-reflection. Yes, I was a bit envious that my Whole Foods Market did not have the same look, feel and product offerings or the feeling of excitement that often accompanies a new venture. But, at the same time, I was happy that my colleagues and others would have access to the wealth of healthful food items that I have had for many years. Perhaps they would be as inspired as I was when I discovered Whole Foods about ten years ago? This discovery was the primary factor motivating me to move back into the city (two blocks away from the store). The store has inspired me to learn more about food, to experiment and introduce my family and friends to a whole new, exciting world. It is the place that I first found the pamphlet for The Natural Gourmet Institute for Food and Health, the culinary school that I ultimately attended; finally pursuing a life-long passion. It has truly contributed to my personal nourishment. I think I will show my appreciation by paying it a visit real soon!

Nourishment

2010-05-05T21:03:00.001-07:00

Sometimes we find nourishment in food. Sometimes we find it in people, events and experiences. Every now and then it all intersects so perfectly and we experience a magical, almost mystical, sense of complete nourishment. Tonight, I was fully consumed with this complete nourishment.

After a long-stretch of work-related stress, I met with seven women who I met on a recent yoga retreat in St. John for a potluck dinner. The focus was a celebration of Spring and the kinship we had formed very quickly over a very short period of time. We agreed that I would help coordinate the menu and another woman would generously host the group in her fabulous loft in Tribeca. The enthusiastic e-mails began to fly and the menu took shape although I experienced serious commitment issues over the entree for which I was responsible. I knew I wanted to incorporate seasonal vegetables but also wanted the dish to be luscious but light.

The day before the potluck, I finally committed in part to a dish that would prominently feature roasted shitake and cremini mushrooms, thoroughly sweated leaks and sauteed asparagus. It all came together about an hour before the potluck in the form of a pasta dish. Fresh orechetti pasta lightly coated with a sauce of cream, milk, vegetable stock and grated Gruyere cheese. The pasta had generous amounts of the previously-prepared vegetables mixed throughout.

I also prepared steamed artichokes with a garlicky-anchovy oil for dipping, called Bagna Cauda. I had simmered three heads of garlic in 1/2 cup of olive oil until tender and then blended in a small tin of anchovies. Both items, which were resounding successes, were partially inspired by last month's Bon Apetite magazine as well as a dinner I had with friends from culinary school.

The moment I walked into the host's Tribeca loft, I was greeted by the warmest of smiles. The stress of work and lack of sleep melted away like the leeks that I had prepared the evening before. As I bounced in and out of endless conversations around the kitchen island, my eyes remained focused on all of the delectable offerings that these women prepared. It is indeed true that we first taste with our eyes. I was satiated and nourished before the first morsel of food entered my mouth.

We prepared the table and I was truly in awe. The spread was bountiful and the company was nourishing. The wine was also great.

The menu consisted of:

Hor's Doeuvres courtesy of Betsy:

Cheese and Crackers
Olives and Nuts
Steamed Artichokes and Bagna Cauda

Entree:
Perfectly roasted chicken and vegetables (baby carrots, onions and potatoes) which was extraordinarily tender and expertly butchered by Patti

Pasta with roasted shitake and cremini and sauteed leeks and asparagus and a light cream and Gruyere sauce by moi
Green Market Salad featuring the freshest of green, feta and an amazing vinaigrette prepared lovingly by Lisa
Wheat berry salad containing cherry tomatoes and tiny, tasty morsels of a cheese which Jessa must divulge again
Chopped, dressed brussel sprout salad with toasted pine nuts and dried blueberries and Michele's love
We savoured eat bite and eagerly anticipated dessert. We were greeted with a huge platter of the most beautiful berries thanks to Hali whose kitchen is under construction and an apple pie freshly baked at Bubby's and carefully selected by Daniella.
The night was magical and I am still feeling completely nourished. We are going to make this a regular event and I can't wait for the next one.

Dumpling Making with Anita Lo

2010-05-02T18:28:00.000-07:00

Yesterday morning, I assisted Chef Anita Lo of Annisa Restaurant & Rickshaw Dumpling Bar, in a Dumpling Workshop at the Museum of Chinese in America. The family event sponsored by LuckyRice benefitted City Harvest, a New York not-for-profit organization focused on feeding New York's hungry and homeless. Anita demonstrated both Pork and a Garlic Chive Dumpling and a vegan, Edamame Dumpling recipe. Participants tried their hand at their own dumplings and sampled an assortment of dumplings prepared the evening before by Chef Lo and another volunteer. The event was a success and I left with two ziploc baggies brimming with extra dumpling filling.

This morning, I got up early and had an extra amount of energy. As I drank my morning coffee and contemplated my day, I determined that I would try to take it slow and not allow my overly enthusiastic spirit to wear me out before noon. I enjoyed breakfast on the patio with David and then went to Whole Foods to purchase some wonton wrappers. Of course, I could not resist the many seasonal items found in the produce section; ramps, artichokes and fresh arugula from NJ. I had some fava beans which needed to be cooked. I also picked up some oyster mushrooms and mesquite wood chips because I wanted to try to smoke the mushrooms like Emeril did on a recent episode on Emeril Green. I had no idea what I was going to make.

Back to the dumplings......

I started with a batch of the Edamame Dumplings. The recipe is fairly straight-forward. Just process thawed edamame beans, a bit of soy sauce, lemon juice, Meyer lemon zest and neutral oil til smooth. Mix in a bit of chopped scallion and some whole edamame for a bit of texture, spoon the mixture into the center of a wonton skin, form into a dumpling and pan fry or steam for approximately 5 minutes until skins are cooked. I thought that the fava beans that I had recently shelled or even thawed petite peas would make a great substitute for the edamame. The fava beans might work well with some freshly chopped parsley and the peas would certainly benefit from some freshly chopped mint.

Next, I made a batch of Pork and Garlic Chive Dumplings which consisted of ground pork, finely chopped cabbage, scallions, garlic chives, ginger, soy sauce, sesame oil and salt and pepper to taste. I formed these dumplings into a wonton shape to distinguish theme from the vegan, edamame dumplings. When I finished, I realized that I had completed a major feat; I sat for nearly two hours, focused on one task, undisturbed except for the tunes shuffling on the ipod and wafting out of speakers into the open air of our patio. The repetitiveness of the task of dumpling making, similar to the shelling of the fava beans, was extremely therapeutic. I don't know what was more enjoyable for my family; the delicious dumplings or the zen-like aura that seemed to follow me into the evening. Ohmmmmmm!

The Regal Vegan Presents Faux Gras

2010-04-14T19:05:00.000-07:00

Every once in a while, we are blessed with the opportunity of crossing paths with someone with whom we have an instant connection and know intuitively that they will secure a special place in your life and heart. Ella, also known to many as The Regal Vegan, is one of these special people. I met Ella about a year ago while studying health counseling at The Institute of Integrative Nutrition. Ella's vivacious personality, bright smile and uniquely beautiful crimson hair allows her to stand out in a crowd of strangers. Her zest for life, creative passion for food and business acumen are icing on the cake! Since meeting Ella, we have collaborated on cooking events and, best of all, become great friends.

We recently met for brunch and she brought me up to speed on the success of her latest venture; the launch of a product called "Faux Gras." It's a decadent vegan spread made of walnuts, lentils, onions and organic seasonings. Ridiculously healthy, this mousse-like, creamy spread makes toast, crackers and crudite proud. It has been picked up by 17 stores in NYC, including:

in Brooklyn – Blue Apron Foods, Back to the land, Perelandra, Natural Frontier and Sunac.

in Manhattan: Westerly Market, Lifethyme Market, Natural Frontier (Gramercy and Upper East side), Earth Matters, Commodities, Health Nuts, Columbus Natural Foods and Eastside Market.

If it’s not at a store near you, please request it!

Organic, vegan, wheat-free, gluten-free,
dairy-free, sugar-free and enlightened.

I recently shared some Faux Gras with my sons and their friends. I view them as the most challenging of critics. The greatest testament of their approval was the quickly-vanishing bowl and the licking of fingers!

Spring Pea Soup with Minted Crema

2010-04-14T17:48:00.000-07:00

Spring is certainly in the air. And it couldn't come any sooner given the long, cold winter that so many of us across the Nation endured. Soon the farmer's markets will be brimming with a bounty of Spring vegetables; asparagus, fiddle head ferns, scapes and one of my favorites, the simple pea.

As an ode to Spring, I recently treated my family to a luscious pea soup as a starter to our Easter dinner. It was such a hit that I did an encore presentation for a monthly gathering of my culinary-school buddies where the theme focused on Spring delights. Again, the soup received rave reviews.

This creamy, optionally dairy-free dish contains only a handful of ingredients. It is a pure and honest celebration of the essence of a pea. The delicate silky green color screams of Spring. It's a far cry from the over-cooked, mushy, bland stuff that may evoke deeply suppressed bad childhood food memories.

Spring Pea and Soup with Mint Crema
(adapted from bon appetit, April 2010)

10 Servings

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped shallots
1/2 cup chopped onions
2 garlic cloves, minced
Two 16-ounce bags frozen petite peas, unthawed or about 5 pounds peas in pods
5 1/2 cups of low-salt vegetable broth (or vegetable bouillon) (I used Rapunzel brand)
1/4 cup chopped fresh mint plus additional for garnish

1/4 cup Greek-style yogurt or vegan sour cream
1/8 cup chopped fresh mint

Spring Pea Soup

Heat oil in large pot over medium heat.
Add shallots and onion and saute until almost tender, about 5 minutes.
Add garlic and continue to saute for an additional 2 minutes.
Add peas and stir to combine.
Add broth and bring to a simmer.
Cook until peas are very tender, about 10 minutes.
If time permits, cool.
Ladle mixture in batches into blender or Vita-mix, reserving about 1 cup of the cooking liquid.
Puree soup and 1/4 cup chopped mint until smooth (if using a blender, strain puree).
Return puree to pot; thin with reserved broth to desired consistency (excess broth may be used for another purpose such as cooking liquid for cous-cous, quinoa or brown rice).
Season with salt and pepper.

Minted Crema (optional)
Combine Greek-style yogurt or vegan sour cream and 1/8 cup chopped mint.

Ladle warmed soup into bowls; garnish with additional mint and a dollop of minted crema.

A special thanks to my dear friends, Natalia, founder of Cook-Life, for her graceful food styling, and Tricia, talented food-blogger, for her beautiful photography.

Easter Dinner

2010-04-04T20:35:00.000-07:00

Today, I celebrated Easter with my family. It was a beautiful day. The weather was perfect for casual outdoor dining on our patio. I had visited the local farmer's market at Union Square yesterday in search of perfect ingredients not really knowing what direction my menu would take. All I knew was that the menu was intended to be a celebration of Spring. I was slightly disappointed with the limited offering but was drawn to farm-fresh brown eggs, fingerling potatoes and carrots. I knew I would have to take a trip to Whole Foods to complete the menu. There I purchased asparagus, a side of wild-caught salmon, partially boneless New Zealand leg of lamb, fennel, leeks and some fresh herbs. I had a few items in my refrigerator and pantry which would supplement my purchases.

Although I planned to wake early Sunday morning and set my alarm for 8:00 a.m., I couldn't help but hit the snooze button several times and finally getting up after 10:00. I quickly got into cooking mode. Cleared off the counters and began pulling ingredients from the refrigerator. I knew I should get started on the leg of lamb. I usually allow it to marinade awhile in a rub of freshly-chopped garlic, rosemary, sea salt, pepper, lemon juice and olive oil but I did not have enough time. I quickly began chopping the rosemary when I felt a familiar sting and saw blood streaming from my left thumb. I had sliced off a sizeable piece of my finger but did not have the luxury to spend too much time nursing the wound. I properly wrapped it, disgarded the chunk of flesh to ensure it would not become part of my Easter meal and proceeded to chop the garlic and other ingredients. I scored the leg of lamb in several places and rubbed it with the marinade, put it in a roasting pan atop fingerling potatoes which I had sliced in half and seasoned with rosemary, olive oil, sea salt and pepper.
While beets and carrots were separately simmering and asparagus spears were roasting, I proceeded to carmelize fennel, leeks and shallots for a simple frittata which would later be topped with grated gruyere cheese melted to a golden brown. I sauteed some additional leeks and shallots for a pea soup. The recipe is so easy but yields delicious results. I tossed in two bags of frozen petite peas and cooked for 1 minute with the leeks and shallots, added 5 1/2 cups of vegetable stock and simmered for 10 minutes. I then pureed the mixture to a silky smooth consistency. I had planned to top the soup with a dollop of minted creme fraiche but ended up using greek yogurt which worked quite well.

I then got to work on my salad which consisted of the assorted baby lettuces, beets which I first boiled until almost tender and then roasted, thinly-shaved fennel and supremed orange slices tossed with a fig-balsamic vinegar, freshly-squeezed orange juice, dijon mustard and extra virgin olive oil.
I pureed the cooked carrots and seasoned with cumin and a bit of agave which added a hint of sweetness. I then got to work on the salmon and opted for a basic recipe of salt, pepper, olive oil and citrus glaze. As a last-minute addition, I made some cous-cous, utilizing the cooking liquid from the carrots instead of stock or water.

Although I was pressed for time, David had recently expressed a desire for pineapple upside down cake. I almost bailed on the dessert but I realized that I did not have a backup plan and it was also my son's birthday weekend so I asked my neice to google a recipe. I realized that I had all of the ingredients on hand and had little excuse not to make it. All were glad I did.

Pineapple Upside Down Cake
Adapted from Simply Recipe

INGREDIENTS
Topping:*
1 cup of firmly packed dark brown sugar
1/2 cup unsalted butter
1 can (20 oz) of pineapple slices
Cake:
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
6 Tbsp cake flour
6 Tbsp of ground almonds (from about 2 oz of whole almonds)
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 3/4 cups of sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature
4 large eggs
3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup sour cream

METHOD
1. Start by making the caramel topping. Take brown sugar and butter and combine and melt in a saucepan on medium heat until sugar dissolves and the mixture is bubbly, this should take several minutes. Pour mixture into a 10 inch diameter stick-free cake pan with 2 inch high sides. Arrange pineapple slices in a single layer ontop of the caramel mixture.

2. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F. Whisk the flours, almonds, baking powder, and salt in a large mixing bowl. In a separate bowl, use an electric mixer to beat the sugar and butter together until light. Add eggs one at a time, beating after each addition. Beat in the vanilla. Add dry ingredients alternately with sour cream in 2 additions each, beating well after each addition. Pour cake batter over caramel and pineapple in pan.

3. Bake cake until tester inserted into the center comes out clean, about 1 hour to 1 hour 15 minutes. Cool cake in pan on a rack for 10 minutes. Turn cake out onto a platter. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes 12 to 14 servings.

My First Passover Seder

2010-03-29T20:33:00.000-07:00

Tonight, my dear friend Ellen and I were invited to the home of Paula Shapiro. Her sister is someone we know from culinary school. Judith bumped into Ellen and I about a year ago outside an amazing spice shop on Lexington Avenue, Kalustyians, that has imaginable. Ellen and I had spent the day romping around the city and discovered that each of us had a longing desire to attend a Passover Seder. I was stumped by the fact that after nearly 20 years practicing law with a number of people who celebrated this holiday, I had never been invited to a Seder. Just as we decided that we, would need to take it upon our selves if we were to ever celebrate, we bumped into Judith who had stop at Kalustyians to purchase some dates for her family's Passover Seder.

After a discussion that lasted over an hour, Judith remarked that we were welcome to join her family's non-orthodox celebration. Fast forward one year and so it was to pass. I admit I was a bit nervous upon hearing that Judith's dad who was 93 years old had just been discharged from the hospital recovering from a hip injury and that her aunt Helen who was 95 would be in attendance. Neither Ellen nor I wanted to intrude upon a personal celebration regardless of our own selfish desires. Judith assured us that the evening would include a panoply of friends and family and places had been set at the table for both Ellen and I. So, we could not say no.

Immediately upon entering Paula's apartment in Yonkers we were greeted by friends and family. We were also greeted by an open bar and, better yet, a spread of home-made chopped liver, herring in white sauce and matzoh made by an Italian family friend. There were also these amazing meatballs that were both savory and sweet. We were cautioned to pace ourselves but the lingering hunger of a long day took precedence.

After an hour or so of great conversation and discovery of the several degrees of separation that united us all, we were seated at a beautifully decorated table. I was informed that as the youngest guest in attendance, I had the privilege and obligation of reading the "Four Questions" from the Haggadah. My nervousness was tempered by the periodic glasses of ceremonial wine and the security of the environment. I was engrossed by the culture and history of the non-orthodox event.
After recitation of several responses in Hebrew equating to "and it would be sufficient", we were ready for the festive meal. Prior to dinner, we were treated to home-made horseradish and karroset (apples, walnuts and cinnamon) and matzoh. We made "sandwiches" which I am certain were non traditional. Next came the elaborate meal which was much like Thanksgiving in my household. Dish after dish poured out of the kitchen.

We started with a simple salad that was tossed with an flavorful vinaigrette.
Next, was gefilte fish. Something I've had an almost a morbid curiosity about as year after year I peer into the bottled jars that line the supermarket shelves. This was something that I had not expected. Cool, delicate mounds of dumpling-like matter. I learned that it took two types of freshwater fish ground into a pate and bound with some egg and a bit of matzoh meal and then formed into dumplings and then lovingly simmered in a home-made fish stock made with the bones, head and tail of the fish.

Next came matzoh ball soup.
Dense dumplings dancing in a deeply flavorful broth. Next came a chicken and slivered almond dish,
a Moroccan-inspired lamb dish which I plan to serve for Easter,
kugle, carrot and sweet potato mash and steamed asparagus.
When my stomach was bursting, we were treated to a brief respite before the elaborate desserts were served. Being the proper quests that we were, we could not leave without trying them all. Besides, I have a sweet spot for macaroons.
There were plain macaroons. Macaroons dipped in chocolate. Chocolate, flour less cookies and cake and my favorite, carrot cake.

I have a doggie bag for tomorrow and sweet memories that will last forever.

Open-Air Brunch

2010-03-28T11:38:00.001-07:00

As I sit here in our living room on Martha's Vineyard in an over-sized sweatshirt, thick, warm socks sipping a cup of steaming chai tea, I can't help but think of how Mother Nature is being a bit of a tease. A few weeks ago, we were sitting on our patio in NYC in shorts and tank tops remarking on how hot it was for March and wondering if the cold of winter was finally over. I guess not. But at least we were fortunate enough to take advantage of the warm weather and have fond food memories of an open-air brunch to help us get through the last bit of winter.

My desire for a lazy, cook-free Sunday was interrupted when David returned from Whole Foods with Bloody Mary mix. We had a few ounces of vodka in the freezer; not really enough for a proper Bloody Mary but enough to inspire the making of a home-made brunch. I surveyed the pantry and the refrigerator and found some onions, three potatoes, a few celery stalks, almost wilted kale, eggs, a pear, an assortment of baby lettuces, crumbled roquefort cheese and quinoa. There were also left-overs from a t-bone steak that David had cooked the evening before. As David turned into a mixologist, I donned an apron and took over the kitchen.

I sauteed the onions and diced potatoes until golden brown. For myself, I chopped kale and garlic and added it to toasted quinoa and then simmered them together in vegetable stock until light and fluffy. I made simply scrambled eggs. I also made a salad of baby lettuces, roasted pears and crumbled roquefort cheese. For the dressing, I squeezed the juice of a random grapefruit and whisked in some olive oil. Lastly, we sliced the remaining t-bone steak.

The food was made more delicious by the beautiful setting and the company of my best friend, David.

Twist on Tuna Salad

2010-03-28T10:50:00.000-07:00

David and I adore avocados. Lately, we've been using them more and more in dishes besides guacamole. It makes me so happy to see him experiment with food; adding avocado to eggs, sandwiches and other dishes. While I don't expect to find him in the kitchen whipping up a batch of luscious chile-chocolate mousse that is built using avocados as a base, I am confident that there will be a few more surprises in my future. (I previously included a post with the recipe for the mousse; it's amazing!)

Avocados are so versatile and healthful and easy to incorporate into quick, simple meals. Today, I used it instead of mayo in a mediterranean tuna salad. I had planned to make a chopped salad with tomatoes, black olives, avocado, onions and lettuce. I came across two cans of tuna screaming to be used so I rethought the recipe and just combined all ingredients to make a tuna salad. It was hearty, flavorful and very satisfying due to the richness of the avocado.

Signature Dish

2010-02-27T20:14:00.000-08:00

I spent most of today pondering what is my most representative signature dish. And the rest of the day creating it. You see, I need to submit a picture of my signature dish to be included in an interview of me that will soon appear in Friendseat. The task is not an easy one. I'm not known for a single dish, flavor profile, particular style of cooking or cuisine. I adore surprising my family and friends with a variety of cuisines and I tend not to replicate dishes. I also do not cook from recipes although I gain inspiration from my extensive library of cookbooks.

As I struggled with this assignment, David mentioned that he loved a potato gratin that has recently been included in my repertoire. I think I've made it three times utilizing different techniques and ingredients but always yielding the same result; insatiable pleasure. Yes, the potato gratin would be the anchor of my signature dish. The dish was inspired by one that has appeared on the menu of Mas(farmhouse) . I only knew the basic ingredients but took a stab at it anyway. Leeks, cream, bacon, potatoes and cheese. I've tried it with celeriac root, white potatoes and sweet potatoes and various combinations of the forgoing. I've tried it with Parmesan cheese and Gruyere. I've tried it with heavy cream, half and half and regular milk. Sometimes I've added butter. I also added nutmeg which enhances the flavor of the leek-infused cream.

Regardless of the ingredients, the techniques that I have found most essential are the same: fry bacon, saute leeks in bacon fat, add milk or cream and simmer to infuse leek flavor and reduce. Add nutmeg. Thinly slice potatoes and layer. Top with leek-infused cream which should barely cover the potatoes. Bake, covered until potatoes are almost tender. Uncover and bake for 10 more minutes. Top with shredded cheese and broil until golden brown and bubbly. I added crisply roasted shitake mushroom slivers as a garnish.

Okay, I had the carb nailed down but I would need a protein and a vegetable. I decided to go with my gut. About three summers ago, I discovered a technique for making the most succulent ribs by stacking the racks on top of one another, seasoning with salt and pepper and adding barbecue sauce only at the end, cooking at a low temperature over indirect heat and rotating the layers of racks so that the juices of each infuse the others. I usually make these ribs for the Fourth of July extravaganza on Martha's Vineyard. The barbecue sauce is almost irrelevant as the meat becomes very flavorful and smoky from the long cooking time. Tonight, I decided to go with a spicy, glaze containing chipotle, smoked paprika and reduced freshly squeezed orange juice and a multitude of other ingredients. I previously posted the recipe for Spicy Ancho-Chile Grilled Portobello Mushrooms.

For the vegetable side, I was torn between my love for roasted vegetables and my love for quickly cooked greens. I decided that I did not need to compromise. I roasted quartered brussel sprouts in olive oil, salt and pepper. I did the same with carrots which I had shaped into small diamonds. I blanched the leaves of the brussel sprouts that had fallen off when I sliced off the root stem. I also blanched smally-diced carrots and long, thin ribbons of collard greens.

My remaining challenge is to select a high-quality photo which captures and communicates the deliciousness of the signature dish that I created.

Rockin the Kasbah: Lamb Tagine and Thyme Cous-Cous

2010-02-20T19:23:00.000-08:00

Tonight was a perfect example of what inspired me to begin the culinary chronicle of fancy pans. About a year ago, I purchased a tagine from Williams-Sonoma. Yes, indeed it was a fancy pan; how often would I actually use it? I justified my purchase in several ways. The tagine was high quality (Emile Henry) and deeply-discounted (over 50%). It was a member of my favorite color family; red. And, it was very decorative. I cleared space on a shelf above my kitchen and it look grand. As it began to collect dust, I occassionally felt a twang of guilt about my frivolous purchase. I vowed to use it and even went so far as to buy some preserved lemons which I stumbled upon in Whole Foods. I would make a classic preserved lemon and green olive chicken tagine. Well, the preserved lemons got lost in the back of my fridge and and when I finally found them they were covered with green mold! So much for my attempt to put the tagine to good use.

Since then on countless occassions, I have pulled out cookbooks on North African and Mediterranean cuisine trying to find inspiration to use my tagine which by now had collected much dust. My inspiration finally came about a week ago when my friend, Ellen, mentioned that she had recently made a lamb dish using a tagine. I mentioned that I had one and she excitedly insisted that we make a meal. She was working on reducing the intuitive technique that she had used to a written recipe.

And so it began. I am not much for following recipes except when baking so I was a bit out of my element as Ellen periodically reminded me to measure the ingredients and to time the various steps. I obediently fumbled with her kitchen timer and measuring spoons. What choice did I have? Ellen is a recently-retired commander in the Navy!

We started by browning cubed pieces of stew meat from young, pasture-raised lambs which Ellen purchased from the Catskill Merino Sheep Farm vendor at the Union Square Green Market. In the meanttime, diced pieces of butternut squash tossed in olive oil and sea salt roasted in the oven.

We added sliced onions and several, slightly smashed whole cloves of garlic to the tagine and carmelized them in the same oil in which the lamb was browned. Deglazing the tagine with a few squeezes of fresh lemon juice help to capture all the goodness of the bits of browned lamb and aromatics that stuck to the bottom of the tagine.

A "secret" combination of spices, including sweet paprika, cumin, tumeric, cinnamon, coriander, cayenne and chili powder, created a fragrant ras al hanout. This is my new favorite word which I learned is a combination of spices. In certain Mediterranean countries, spice merchants are known by their proprietary masterful blends.

Next, we allowed the flavors of the carmelized onions, garlic, ras al hanout and diced tomatoes to meld. We then added back the browned lamb. Later, we'd add the roasted butternut sqash, chickpeas and dried apricots. And garnish with toasted almonds and cilantro.

We were tempted to peek but wary of allowing the steam from the tagine to escape. Steam is the way in which the ingredients cook.

A bit of thyme was a wonderfully flavorful last minute addition to the water in which the cous cous was cooked. It also made a nice colorful and textural garnish balancing the neutral hue of the grain. Ellen's table scape provided a warm and inviting backdrop.

Voila. The unveiling of the lamb tagine.

It was finally time to sit down and enjoy the fruits of our labor. Certainly a labor of love.

It was quite lovely, especially when paired with a bottle of 2007 Saint Lion Bourgogne Pinot Noir. But the perfectionists that we are agreed that we need to slightly tinker a bit with the combination of spices and decided that the tomatoes, which reduced to a bit of a paste, made the dish a bit heavy on the palatte. Perhaps fresh tomatoes and the addition of a cup or so of stock? We also noticed that some recipes use ginger and saffron so we'll try them next time. I'm including our (well, it's Ellen's) recipe for you to try.

Lamb, Butternut Squash, Chickpea & Apricot Tagine

1 medium butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cut into cubes
1.5 lbs of lamb stew meat
1 large sweet onion, cut into eighths
2 clove of garlic, lightly smashed
olive oil

Spice Mixture (Ras Al Hanout):
1 tbs sweet paprika
1 tbs ground cumin
1 tbs tumeric
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1.5 tsp ground coriander
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper
1/2 tsp chili powder

1 16-ounce can of diced tomatoes
1 16-ounce can of chickpeas, rinsed
1/4 c dried apricots or golden raisins
1/4 c slivered almonds (for garnish)
1/4 c cilantro leaves, torn (for garnish)

Preheat oven to 400.
Toss cubed squash with olive oil to lightly cover. Season with sea salt. Arrange in one layer on sheet pan.
Roast squash in oven for 20-30 minutes until soft and carmelized turning occasionally to ensure even cooking.
Coat bottom of tagine (or dutch oven) with olive oil, heat and brown lamb in small batches.
Remove from tagine and set aside.
Add onions to tagine. Add additional oil, if necessary to coat. Cook onions until almost carmelized.
Add garlic cloves and continue cooking.
Add spice mixture and stir to coat onions and garlic.
Return lamb to tagine and stir.
Add tomatoes and juice. Cover and simmer on low heat, stirring occasionally until lamb is almost tender, approximately 55 minutes.
Garnish with almonds. Serve over cous-cous garnished with cilantro leaves.
Add chickpeas, squash and apricots. Simmer for an additional 10 minutes

hungry in nyc

2010-02-20T11:11:00.001-08:00

It's quite fitting that I should come across this photo while I sit ravenous with hunger and lacking an adequately stocked fridge or pantry. Being sick for an extended period sucks! I know it's fairly minor but I can't seem to get rid of this darn thing that ails me and prevents me from grocery shopping and serious cooking.

I'd love a fluffy omelet served over creole red beans right now. Like the one they serve here. Mother's Restaurant opened its doors in 1938 in New Orleans cookin up po’ boys for lines of longshoremen and laborers, newspapermen and attorneys. The line to get in this place snaked around a corner and down a block. The procession moves at a quick pace. It reminds me of a cafeteria line except there are no steam tables greeting you at the end. You place your order and search massive dining room for a seat.

Oh, I really miss New Orleans. So much so that as I type, I can see the reflection of a pig emblazoned on the tee-shirt that I unconsciously grabbed this morning. It's from this restaurant here that's all about the pork. We'll be back soon for jazz fest. Where for five days or so my greatest stress will be trying to figure out how to eat as many meals in as many different places. It's a bit of a challenge especially when faced with hundreds of food vendors on the fairgrounds alone. I'm no longer so hungry in nyc; David knows me well and also knows that it's best to feed me quickly before my hunger causes me to act irrationally! he made a great salad with odds and ends> And I managed to scrape together a pretty decent-sized burger with the ground beef that I defrosted yesterday. Lastly, I always feel a bit more satiated after spending a bit of time thinking and writing about food, travel and fun!

I'm off to my friend's place to test out my tagine and her recipe. I'll be posting about lamb and cous cous soon. I also have to post about the luscious stew I made from the homemade beef stock that I previoulsy posted about. Roasting the bones and simmering overnigt was definitely worth it!

Feed a Cold

2010-02-09T16:31:00.000-08:00

This past weekend after a hard workout at the gym, I ventured out into the cold to pick up vegetables from the Union Square Green Market. I also bought soup bones which I planned to roast with some of the root vegetables to make a nutritious home-made broth which would serve as the foundation for a hearty soup. The soup was intended to help nurse David back to health; he had been fighting a bad bout of the flu and recovery did not seem to be in sight. I also picked up a loaf of hearty, whole wheat bread to make paninis to accompany the soup.

After lugging bags of grocery home and skimming many recipes for the perfect soup, I found myself with very little energy. I had lost enthusiasm and the thought of making anything seemed like a chore. Perhaps what contributed to my exhaustion was the realization that a proper beef broth required that the bones and vegetables roast for about 90 minutes before simmering in a pot of water for 8-10 hours? I struggled but found the energy to at least get started allowing the simmering process to take place overnight while we slept.

On Sunday, I abandoned the idea of a beef-based soup and made a simple vegetable soup. I still have a huge stock pot filled with beef broth reminding me of my failed efforts. Fortunately, we have a large patio and the temperatures have been low so I was able to safely store the stock pot out of temporary site until I find the inspiration to turn it into a wholesome meal. By Sunday afternoon, David was on the road to recovery but I found myself rather lethargic and achy. I had completely lost my appetite and found myself nibbling gingersnap and chocolate chip cookies and sipping steaming chai tea that I had brewed up from an assortment of aromatic spices such as cardamon, cinnamon stick, ginger and cloves. The loss of appetite continued for two more days.

Finally, this evening I felt an urge to get in the kitchen and make some paninis. I don't know if my stomach was as ready. I sauteed onions, sliced some beautiful indoor-grown tomatoes from the farmers market, and grilled a long slab of skirt steak until juicy, tender and barely pink. Between two slices of doughy market bread, I layered all of these ingredients, topping them off with chunks of blue cheese and leafy green upland cress. As I applied weight to the panini press, I could hear the sizzling of the juices dripping from the steak and smell the oozing pungent cheese beginning to meld as the edges of the bread turned golden and crisp. The meal was comforting. I'll soon know if there's any truth to the old adage "feed a cold...." or is it "starve a cold...? Oh well, for now, I feel pretty good.

A Farmer in the City

2010-02-01T17:23:00.000-08:00

This past Saturday, I had the pleasure of spending the evening at The James Beard House with one of my favorite friends, a culinary school classmate and fellow foodie. Ellen and I have had many memorable moments together in recent years and have bonded not only over food but on our shared journey through mid-life. Ellen is a recently retired Commander in the Navy. Her zest and passion for people and life emanates like a generous beacon of light embracing all who come into her path. She has inspired and guided me on numerous occasions. She has also elevated my appreciation for culinary experiences in NYC. So I was delighted to be her "date" for a dinner at The James Beard House featuring Adam Cooke, the committed locavore chef of The Barn at Blackberry Farm/ in Walland, TN.

The Blackberry Farm is a bucolic property on which its restaurant, the Barn, resides. Last year, Ellen had the good fortune of experiencing first-hand how chef Adam Cooke uses produce from Blackberry’s own gardens to prepare dishes that expertly marry haute cuisine with the Great Smoky Mountains’ regional traditions. As I googled the Barn and the menu posted on The James Beard House website, my excitement for the evening increased. But I could not have anticipated how wonderful it would actually be.

Ellen and I arrived early and quickly sought shelter from the cold of the night. As we passed through the open kitchen to the enclosed atrium where cocktails would be served, we were greeted not only by chef Adam Cooke and the team he flew in but also the familiar and cheery face of a student currently attending our culinary school who was assisting the staff for the evening. This was a good omen indeed.

During the cocktail hour, we hovered near the kitchen, sneaking peaks as the team masterfully created each dish. All were magnificent. The close quarters and bumping elbows only added to the charm. We spent the next few hours with a table full of lively dinner guests all of whom had a fine appreciation for the food and wine that flowed freely. Ellen and I topped the evening off with a few cocktails at Gotham Bar and Grill, a restaurant that has somehow evaded me over the years.

Exhaustedly, I made my way home excited to share a detailed account of the evening's events with David.

Hors d’Oeuvre

Oysters and Muscadine Grape Noodles with Sumac

Housemade Salumi and Pickles

Mountain Trout with Smoked Roe, Green Apples, and Winter Radishes

Dinner

Olive Oil–Confited Columbia River Sturgeon with American Sturgeon Caviar, White Wine–Poached Green Apples, and Mustard-Preserved Winter Root Vegetables

Raw Sheep’s Milk Cooked–Anson Mills Grits with Egg Yolk, Tennessee Black Truffles, and Ham Hock Consommé Jelly

Roasted Four Story Hill Farm Quail with Warm Onion–Field Pea Salad and Hickory Gastrique

Chestnut and Mustard Green–Stuffed Lamb Loin with Lamb Bacon and Caramelized Turnips
Blackberry Farm Singing Brook Cheese with Apple Stack Cake, Black Walnut Compote, and Local Honey

Chocolate Tart with Passion Fruit Sorbet and Hazelnut Sablé

Lazy Saturday Afternoon

2010-01-30T12:24:00.000-08:00

The air is frigid and the skies are a cool grey. Nothing could get me out of my tee shirt and sweat pants except the dinner I have this evening with a friend at the James Beard House (I'm sure I'll be writing about this experience). In the meanwhile, I'm spending as much time on the couch with a warm blanket pulled up to my chin catching up on reading and just letting cooking shows wash over me. But, a girl's gotta eat.

I puttered around the kitchen after I decided not to order Chinese; a waist-friendly and wise choice since I often cannot resist the most calorie laden dishes. The fridge was bare. Actually, it was filled with what appeared to be random ingredients, left-over sauces, vinaigrettes, lots of mixed lettuce, chunks of cheese (parmesan, blue, brie and others), condiments and perch fillets which I bought yesterday and would have to cook soon. How did I end up with several containers of heavy cream and an unopened carton of egg-nog? UGH! My pantry was not much better.

I dredged the perch fillets in panko bread crumbs and pan fried them until golden and crisp. I combined a spicy garlic and jalapeno dipping sauce with a citrusy Mandarin vinaigrette (which I was not too crazy about on its own). The two melded together beautifully to create a creamy dressing to coat the assortment of lettuces. The sauce plays nicely with the fish as well.

Tomorrow's challenge will be to create a few dishes from the random ingredients that fill my refrigerator and pantry. Perhaps a cheesy casserole or an egg-nog bread pudding?

Family, Friends, Food & Fun

2010-01-29T17:50:00.000-08:00

I'm a big fan of sharing my passion for food with my family and friends. Nothing is more satiating to the appetite of ones soul than the spontaneous, fun moments sprinkled throughout our lives. They create beautiful, lasting memories that keep us grounded and able to endure the more challenging times. I like to capture these moments through photos and notes to self and then quietly re-live and memorialize them as I create a new blog post when the appropriate mood sets in.

Recently, I spent a wonderful but short weekend with my niece, Tiffany. I had an unusually hectic week and felt a bit under the weather but I did not have the heart to cancel her trip to NYC. I also did not initially have the energy to prepare a decent meal to welcome her and my sister's arrival. I told them to help themselves to pizza until I got back from the gym and we'd figure out the rest when I returned.

I exhaustedly greeted my sister and niece but quickly got my second wind when I began describing the highlight of my day; an interview/cooking demo for a class that I would like to teach at the Natural Gourmet Institute for Food & Health, my Alma mater. It's still a work in progress but I am optimistic. I also found myself sharing another recent, wonderful experience leading a private, hands-on culinary workshop for group of women in CT which I previously blogged about. I probably overwhelmed my sister but she seemed to remain engaged so I kept talking. My niece was very content curled up on the couch with my laptop and her phone, texting away. Periodically, I reminded her that we would not be wasting away the weekend engaged in such activity. She respectfully acknowledged my comments while at the same time tactfully dismissing them by remaining focused on her texting. I decided at that moment that I needed for her to engage and the best way to do so was to share with her and her mother the cooking technique that was the subject of my private workshop and interview/demo: Cooking en Papillote. I had a few ingredients left over from my demo.

My sister was excited despite Tiffany's display of indifference and then protest very typical of a tween. It took a bit of coaxing and threats but she managed to find her way to the kitchen and even pose for a few memorable photos. Both mom and daughter even managed to pick up a few culinary tricks which I hope they will share with their friends.

Eating Our Way Around San Francisco

2010-01-19T17:02:00.000-08:00

This past weekend, David and I spent some time exploring northern California. Our mission was fairly aggressive; to eat as many meals possible in four days. I had a list of recommendations compiled from a number of sources and am happy to report that our mission was quite successful. We started out slowly. Battling exhaustion from the long flight, we chose to cancel our 9:45 reservation at Chez Panisse in Berkeley realizing that it would be nearly 1 am EST by the time we were seated. But armed with the list and a sporty rental convertible, we were off and running on Saturday!

Our first stop was the Slanted Door, a popular Vietnamese fusion eatery located in San Francisco's Ferry Building. We did not have reservations but were able to secure a table in the lounge of this dimly lit, sleek restaurant. I persused the bar menu strategizing on how to sample as many dishes possible. We decided to try a half-dozen pacific coast oysters, chilled wild lousisiana gulf shrimp with a spicy cocktail sauce and thai basil aioli, monterey bay squid salad with chinese celery, cucumber and thai basil, prather ranch beef carpaccio with roasted peanuts, fresh lime juice and airy, crispy pieces of rau ram which is similar in texture to shrimp toast, and wood oven roasted becker lane tea smoked pork belly served with roasted organic grapes and a basalmic reduction. Our meal was accompanied by ginger limeade and phantasm, a lemongrass vodka, lime and falernum cocktail.

Next, we ventured to the Mission District for brunch at Bar Tartine, a restaurant that blends traditional European dishes and contemporary Bay Area influences. Bar Tartine is the sister to the Tartine Bakery. Both are quite popular with customers lining the sidewalks patiently waiting to get a table in these small establishments. Fortunately, we had reservations. While David opted for a simple meal of fried eggs and frites, I chose starter charcuterie board consisting of pork rillette, bone marrow, micro greens and sliced pears. The dish was served with hearty slices of toasted sourdough bread and grainy mustard. This was followed by perfectly poached eggs topped with house-cured trout and a velvety, tangy hollandaise sauce. Thankfully, we burned a bunch of calories walking to and from Bar Tartine.

We concluded the day's eating mission by with a quiet evening at the Urban Tavern, a hip restaurant located at the Hilton where we were staying. The Urban Tavern's menu boasted of local, sustainable cuisine and wines in a zen-like atmosphere decorated with warm earth-tone hues. David started his meal with a luscious seafood casuela and I selected a comforting crock of french onion soup. I have a soft spot for melted gruyere atop crunchy, chewy bread. The broth was especially rich; a perfect balance of sweet, carmelized onions and beef stock. We did not let anything go to waste as we soaked up every last bit of broth with extra slices of doughy bread. My entree consisted of flounder served on bed of celery root puree encircled with a nutty, brown butter sauce. David had fish and chips which were quite tasty.

The itineiry for our trip revolved around my desire to go to Chez Panisse, the restaurant in Berkeley created by the renowned Alice Waters, the mother of local, seasonal, slow food. As I mentioned, our initial plans were thwarted by pure exhaustion but we were able to secure lunch reservations at the upstairs Cafe. We rose early to attend to a few work-related tasks and then set out intent on hitting a few tourists spots and determined to cruise around town with the convertible down despite the impending storms facing the area. We had a few hours before we needed to get to Berkeley so we headed to Lombard Street, also known as the most crooked street (I later learned it was not but it was still fun), then to Ghiradelli Square for a quick tasting of chocolate. We passed Fisherman's Wharf on the way to the Bay Bridge (having gotten lost despite our GPS). We crossed the bridge, convertible top down, and turned onto Shattuck Avenue and parked right in front of 1517 just as the first drops of rain began to fall. At last we arrived at Chez Panisse.
We were immediately seated in the quiet upstairs cafe in a small room at the front of the restaurant. We were warmly greeted and handed a menu (which changes daily) noting the celebration of Martin Luther King Jr Day. As I savored the moment and ordered a glass of wine, I remarked upon the simple elegance of the menu. I was torn between appetizers but selected a pizzette which contained an interesting combination of ingredients: leeks, smoked salmon and creme fraiche. David had fresh oysters which we can never get enough of. The pizzette had a light, crunchy, thin crust. The delicate carmelized leeks danced in harmony with the smoked salmon whose richness was balanced by the slight tartness of the creme fraiche. Our entrees were roasted squid and radicchio salad for David and house-made sausage, braised napa cabbage and apples and a smooth mashed potato puree. The sausage dish was comfort food at its best. The radicchio was breathtaking; light golden-green and deep and bright purple and red colors which I have never seen before.
We finished our perfect meal on a sweet note with two desserts; a thin apple tartlette sliced with candied orange ice cream and a buttery, caramel sauce and a bittersweet chocolate, kirsh, pistachio bombe. The afternoon was made complete by a drive across the Golden Gate Bridge. We inhaled the nature beauty as we slowly digested all that we had just consumed.

With only a few hours left before we had to head to the airport to catch the dreaded red-eye flight, David and I decided to venture out once again. This time, we hit a few retail spots where we contributed to California's economy. We decided to tackle one last eatery, a last minute recommendation from one of his colleagues. I had checked out the website and was very curious about Ryoko, which was said to have the best sushi in San Francisco. As we descended down a set of stairs into a dark, carpeted restaurant which was reminiscent of a dive in the East Village. But this was different. Above the blasting rock music we were greeted to shouts of welcome in Japanese. Every few minutes, the staff repeated this ritual as more guests arrived. David and I sat at the sushi bar and engaged one of the sushi chefs clad in a blue bandanna and tee-shirt emblazoned with the caption "Show me the Honey". Steeped with a heavy Japanese accent, he carefully explained each of the specials. After a few glasses of sake, I was up to try anything. And I did. My first experience with uni or sea urchin was a bit intimidating but the sushi chef slowly coached me and I was delighted by the one bite of buttery-richness. We had a few specials from Japan, including tairagai (or ear clam because of its shape), baigai (clams cooked in daishi) and ocean vs fresh water eel. We had fried oysters, tempura, spicy tuna, salmon and lots of other goodies before calling it a night. If we had known then that the red-eye flight would be delayed for 7 hours, we would have consumed even more. Ryoko was a hit and I am glad that we decided to stop by. Arigato San Francisco!

Crab & Asparagus Risotto

2010-01-03T16:32:00.000-08:00

I found a need to use the lump crab meat that I had purchased yesterday when I was in the mood for crab cakes. I also wanted to try a relatively easy dish that I don't do very often so I turned to risotto. Risotto is so versatile and it's the perfect food to comfort one on a chilly-snowy afternoon. I also discovered that it is a great stress-reliever or perfect substitute for a session of therapy. As I stood at the stove for about 30 minutes I slowly became mesmerized with each swirl of my wooden spoon. I was unable to let my mind wander to what lay before me at work or what unfinished tasks dauntingly hung over me or which of our sons would be next to face a dilemma requiring our loving attention or unwanted intervention. No, I had to carefully watch the arborio rice soak up each ladle of rich broth (about 14 in total) until the uncooked rice took on an al dente texture.

My recipe was adapted from one I found on epicurious.com but I also added about 1 cup of thinly sliced asparagus and finished the dish with freshly grated lemon zest. This meal will comfort us well into the evening!

Crab Risotto (from epicurious.com)

Condimenti:
1 TBLSP butter
1 Garlic clove
1 small tomato - peeled and chopped
8 oz. crab or lobster meat
1 TBLSP chopped parsley
1/4 cup shredded Italian cheese(mozzarella, asiago, etc)

BRODO:
5 cups Fish or chicken broth
1/2 cup dry white wine

Soffritto:
2 TBLSP butter
1 TBLSP olive oil
2 TBLSP minced onion
1 TBLSP minced carrot
1 TBLSP minced celery

RISO: 1 1/2 cups Aborio rice

preparation

Condimenti:
Melt butter in small skillet, add garlic and tomato and cook for about 1 minute until tomato softens. Add meat, stir to combine and saute for 3-5 minutes. set aside.

Brodo:
Heat broth to simmer in sauce pan.

Soffritto:
Heat butter and oil in heavy 4 qt. pot, add onion, carrot, celery and saute to soften onion. do not brown.

Riso:
Add the rice to the soffritto, stir for 1 minute to coat grains, add wine and stir until wine is absorbed. Add broth 1/2 cup at a time and stir until nearly absorbed, then add 1/2 cup at a time stirring until each addition is nearly absorbed. REserve 1/2 cup.

After approximately 18 minutes, add condimenti, remaining 1/2 cup broth, stir until condimenti is mixed and heated, remove from heat, stir in cheese and parsley to taste, and serve.

Salted Caramels

2010-01-03T13:08:00.000-08:00

I've always admired those who had the dedication and patience to make holiday gift baskets containing home-made goodies. I've done it on a few occasions, sticking with pretty basic treats, such as cookies or spiced nuts. This afternoon as the snow drifted slowly outside my kitchen window, I decided to tackle a batch of salted caramels. Within 30 minutes, I had a tray of golden brown caramel cooling on a rack. After about 2 hours, I was able sample the candies let David judge whether I have any skill in the candy-making department. He enjoyed the buttery-toffee flavor and chewy texture but was not a fan of the sea salt which dotted each piece of candy. He also thought the candies should be a bit darker.

I want to experiment altering the ratio of heavy cream and butter to sugar syrup and also tinker to get a deeper color caramel. Overall, it was a success and I am already envisioning a line of gourmet candies...Kiki's Caramels. There will be a ginger caramel, brown-butter caramel, espresso caramel, lavender caramel and dark chocolate-chipotle caramel. The only part that I am not really looking forward to is wrapping all those tiny candies. Hmmm, perhaps this will need to be a family business?

Ingredients
* 1 cup heavy cream
* 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into pieces
* 2 teaspoons sea salt, plus extra for sprinkling on top. Sea salt is found in specialty food stores under the name "fleur de sel." You can also experiment with artisanal salts if you like.
* 1 1/2 cups sugar
* 1/4 cup light corn syrup
* 1/4 cup water
Equipment
* 8" square baking pan
* Parchment paper
* Candy thermometer (or a deep-fat thermometer)
* Wax paper for wrapping or paper candy cups
Yield: About 40 caramels.
Directions
* Line the bottom and sides of the pan with parchment paper and lightly oil the paper.
* Bring the cream, butter and sea salt to a boil in a small saucepan; remove from heat and set aside.
* Boil the sugar, corn syrup, and water in a heavy saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved. Bring to a boil, without stirring but gently swirling pan; then cook without stirring until the mixture reaches 248°F, the firm-ball stage.
* Carefully stir in the cream mixture—the mixture will bubble up. Simmer, stirring frequently, about 15 minutes. The temperature should not go higher than 250°F.
* CANDYMAKER TIP: To get the caramel consistency you want, test by dropping a spoonful of caramel into a bowl of cold water. It will form a ball, which you can test with your fingers. Stop cooking when the ball is the consistency that you want.
* Pour the mixture into the baking pan and cool 2 hours.

Farewell to The Pink Tea Cup

2009-12-30T18:35:00.000-08:00

On my commute home from work this afternoon, I pulled out an old, crumpled section of the NYT's. I flipped through the pages engrossed in articles about Hanukkah recipes, new restaurant reviews and bargain wines. As I made a final fold of the cumbersome paper, a small column on upcoming restaurant closings caught my eye. The article announced that The Pink Tea Cup, an soul food establishment that I frequented during my days as a starving law student at NYU almost 20 years ago, would be serving its last plate of grits and red eye gravy on January 3rd. I experienced a brief moment of deja vu as this past weekend my eldest son informed me that the restaurant had already closed. I don't know how he knew that but I was not so surprised by the news given the daunting economic times. I was a bit sad that I had missed having a final meal there but, alas, if the NYT's was correct, I would have one last opportunity. But I would have to seize the opportunity tonight as I was heading to Martha's Vineyard and would not be back before January 3rd.

I had plans to meet my buddy, Katherine, tonight so I texted her with the news and she agreed that we would meet there for a farewell dinner. I also texted my sons and implored them to make plans to visit The Pink Tea Cup before its closing and experience a meal at a restaurant rich with a 56 year history. I even offered to subsidize a portion of the meal so some of their friends could also enjoy a warm meal. I am eager to hear their reviews.

Katherine and I squeezed into this tiny jewelry box just before the crowd began hovering outside the doors in the frigid cold. We sat right near the door. Initially, we were a bit annoyed each time the door opened exposing the chilly air. The enthusiastic jostling of guests attempting to maneuver their way around the tiny restaurant without having their bags and coats and rear ends knock over our glasses was at first claustrophobic especially for New Yorkers who feel entitled to their own personal space at all times. As the night progressed and the BYOB, crappy Walnut Creek white wine flowed freely, the closeness of strangers became quite charming and we felt right at home.

Katherine and I perused the pink-tattered, laminated menu of The Pink Tea Cup, our famished eyes and stomachs having great difficulty focusing. Should we have southern fried chicken, smothered chicken, smothered pork chops, salmon croquettes, liver and onions? And what about the choice of sides? Collard greens, black-eyed peas, okra tomatoes and corn, gravy and rice, mac and cheese? We finally settled on smothered chicken and smothered pork chops. We enjoyed our meal immensely and ordered a meal to-go for David. As we were leaving, we inquired if the restaurant was indeed closing and were delighted to learn that the owner was in negotiations and there was a glimmer of hope that this historic west village gem might survive for another 50+ years. As we opened the door and were greeted by a crowd of waiting guests on Grove Street, our bellies were filled as were our hearts. My blackberry caught a few of these precious moments.

Another Feast of the Seven Fishes

2009-12-24T22:11:00.000-08:00

Last night I had the pleasure of being a guest at my dear friend, Ellen's, Feast of the Seven Fishes holiday cocktail party. Ellen, who is the hostess with the mostess, treated us all to lovingly-prepared, delectable treats, including shrimp pate, a smoked trout spread, bruschetta topped with a garlic, fig and anchovy tapenade, shrimp with a tangy and smoky home-made cocktail sauce, light and fluffy crab quiches and mini crab cakes, marinated poached tuna with olives, green beans and cherry tomatoes, deviled quail eggs dotted with caviar and lobster salad served on a bed of chunky guacamole. The meal would not have been complete without a dash of Ellen's humor--swedish fish--yes, the chewy candies! I don't know if they would be included in the traditional Italian celebration but there was nothing traditional about our celebration so they were completely appropriate.

Today, I was again the beneficiary of Ellen's extravagance. She had over-shopped and was eager to unload some of her items on me. Tomorrow, I will treat my family to a panoply of hors d'oeuvres of oysters, tea smoked salmon crepes, shrimp cocktail and perhaps lobster bisque.

Feast of the Seven Fishes

2009-12-20T00:38:00.000-08:00

The holidays always brings out my curiosity for how other cultures celebrate. The holidays have always meant spending time with family and friends celebrating around food. In recent years, I've yearned to be part of a big Italian family especially on Christmas Eve so that I could experience first hand the Feast of the Seven Fishes. Last year, I finally decided that if I wanted this experience, I would have to take matters into my own hands. In a last minute whim, I celebrated this Italian cultural tradition last Christmas by serving seven seafood appetizers. As I created each bite-sized portion, I was transported to another land and felt a connection to its people.

I carefully and repeatedly counted each dish as I served it to our boys and their friends for fear that I would fall short of the requisite seven fishes. Our evening began with caviar and blinis, followed by shrimp cocktail, smoked salmon with creme fraiche and dill, crab cakes with a lemon mayonnaise, curried coconut mussels, seared tuna encrusted with coriander, cumin, maple crystals and chili powder and served with a sweet and sour sauce, fried calamari and bouillabaisse containing cod, salmon, mussels and shrimp.

I count eight or twelve if you count each portion of seafood in the bouillabaisse. This year, a good friend who was inspired by my endeavor is hosting a holiday gathering in which she will pay ode to the Feast of the Seven Fishes. I am looking forward to being a guest rather than the cook although I thoroughly enjoyed exposing my family to this new tradition.

Cooking in Papillote

2009-12-13T09:44:00.000-08:00

Earlier this week, I led a successful private cooking party, "Cooking en Papillote--One Technique, Three Cuisines, Endless Dishes." Participants embarked upon a culinary journey and learned the technique of cooking en papillote utilizing ingredients that spanned the globe. These included Latin, Caribbean, Mediterranean and Asian inspirations.

Participants learned tips for creating personally tailored, healthful dishes that can be made upon a moment's notice or in advance to accommodate the busiest of schedules. One participant remarked "not only did we learn a new cooking technique, we had a blast doing it!"
A key to cooking is to build layers of flavors. This is especially true when cooking en papillote as it requires such a short cooking time and ingredients don't have as much opportunity to meld. To create greater depth of flavor, I carmelized fennel and onions for the Mediterranean dish and created a flavorful ginger-orange-coriander sauce for the Asian dish. Both were a hit but I received so many requests for the recipe for the Asian sauce that I've included it below.

The real secret to this recipe is to taste often and adjust the level of sweetness and saltiness to your liking. I tend to cook intuitively so these are approximate amounts to get you started:

Asian Ginger Orange Coriander Sauce
1/4 c fresh squeezed orange juice (store-bought is probably okay too)
1 tbs orange zest
1/2 c dry white wine such as gruner veltliner, sancere
1/4 tsp coriander seeds
1/2 c tamari or soy-sauce
1/2 c mirin (sweet rice wine)
1/8 c agave or honey
2 scallions, thinly sliced
2 inch piece of ginger grated

1. Combine orange juice and 1/4 c of wine. Reduce in a small saucepan until liquids have turned syrupy.
2. Add remaining wine, tamari, mirin, agave, coriander seeds, and ginger. Simmer for approximately 15-20 minutes.
3. Add scallions and orange zest. Simmer for an additional 10 minutes.
4. Cool and strain before using.
This sauce can be made well in advance and stored in the refrigerator.

Breakfast in Bed

2009-12-06T06:06:00.001-08:00

David likes to spoil me by making his favorite meal, breakfast, and serving it to me in bed. I usually protest a bit about how I'm trying to watch what I eat. How I'm eliminating wheat or dairy or meat. How I'm not hungry yet and all I want is a cup of joe. David usually just walks out of the room, leaving the tray of food at the foot of the bed. He returns within 10-15 minutes and smiles as he picks up the tray containing a perfectly cleaned plate. As he leaves the room, he says under his breath "and I thought you weren't hungry?"

Thanksgiving Leftovers

2009-12-03T17:40:00.000-08:00

One of my favorite things to do is creating new dishes with the bounty of vegetables that are leftover from Thanksgiving. Usually, I have several items that fall off my overly-ambitious menu. Last minute editing as the clock quickly ticks towards the designated dinner time. This year, a huge head of cauliflower was transformed from a would-be Thanksgiving gratin to tonight's dinner--curried cauliflower.

This dish is simple yet bursting with the flavors of sauteed onions, cherry tomatoes, curry powder, tumeric, toasted cumin and finely chopped cilantro. A nice change from the monotony of traditional Thanksgiving leftovers.

Countdown to Thanksgiving--the planning begins

2009-11-17T18:24:00.000-08:00

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday by far. In addition to having a great excuse to completely take over the kitchen and create my own personal space into which only the hungriest and bravest of souls dare to enter for fear of interrupting the flow of culinary juices, I feel a special kinship with strangers throughout our country who I know are engaged in the same rituals as me.

Thanksgiving planning formally begins about a month in advance when my various culinary subscriptions begin to crowd my small mailbox and the supermarket racks. These include Gourmet, Food & Wine, Saveur and Eating Well. Catalogs from Williams-Sonoma, pamphlets from Whole Foods' catering department and holiday cooking shows also provide tempting and inspirational material. Not to mention the bountiful, local, seasonal offerings showcased at the Union Square Green Market.

My Thanksgiving-planning ritual would not be complete unless I pulled out my archives of old issues of Gourmet magazine which are now stored at my home away from home on Martha's Vineyard. The relative lack of ease in retrieving these issues, adds a bit of organizational complexity to the process but it also guarantees that David and I will get to spend at least one tranquil weekend on Martha's Vineyard before the craziness of the holidays falls upon us. We have the same opportunity just before Christmas as all of our ornaments are also stored on Martha's Vineyard.

While wading through my Thanksgiving reference materials, a few questions pervade my mind: 1) will I deviate from my traditional menu and 2) since it's highly unlikely that I will deviate why haven't I memorialized my traditional menu and shopping list on something other than remnants of food-stained scrap paper and backs of envelopes that won't resurface amongst my clutter until perhaps Spring cleaning only to be misplaced again? Recently I have also queried whether I will make one or two turkeys, whether or not they will be brined and when and where I will purchase them and begin the brining process or not. The last few years I have opted for brining mostly because I can store the turkeys and ice-cold brining solution in cooler bags on my terrace rather than taking up prime space in the refrigerator. I guess I could just store the turkeys un-brined in a cooler. Yeah, brining is also supposed to help maintain moisture in the bird but I implore all to carefully consider the contents of the brine as all are not created equal. I'd rather liberally douse a slightly dry, relatively plain-tasting piece of meat with savory giblet gravy than have a mouthful of moist but off-tasting apple-sage infused turkey that can't be disguised by even the best gravy. Simple is better when it comes to brine.

While all of this pre-game activity is taking place, I also find myself struggling with whether we will be successful in convincing our boys to spend Thanksgiving on Martha's Vineyard where we have a proper dining table, spacious living room, the ambiance of a roaring fire, wooded surroundings and general charm of New England. Or will David and I exhaustedly dash up North early on Friday after Thanksgiving hauling appropriate portions of leftovers for us to enjoy while leaving behind appropriate portions for the boys to enjoy while we are away?

We have not been successful in convincing the boys for some time so the next pre-occupation is whether my mom will join us for Thanksgiving or insist upon partaking in the hard to resist bargain box meal from Stop & Shop or is it ShopRite? Believe me, I've been slightly tempted at the notion of foregoing the task of cooking in exchange for paying $69 for a turkey, several sides and several pies so I can't blame her. Next, I have to consider which of our boys' friends are expecting my home-cooked meal. Images of lonely, hungry guys and gals far away from home and with nowhere to turn on a brisk Thanksgiving evening invade my mind and heart. I know their parents would take our children in so how could I not add them to my Thanksgiving equation? It's the least I can do. Lastly, having a blended family, I must consider and be considerate of the wishes of others.
For the past 10 years or so, my sons have had Thanksgiving lunch with their dad at a local Indian restaurant and then head to my place. Lunch has been getting later and later each year but, I know when they arrive, we will have a wonderful time. This year David's son will be spending the day with his mom but hopefully he will join us in the evening. In any event their friends will be there and they will all have their favorite Thanksgiving foods.

Southwestern Squash Soup

2009-11-15T05:12:00.000-08:00

Hints of smokiness and heat dance in your mouth, making this a wonderful, comforting soup for a cool autumn day. The tofu sour cream adds a touch of brightness. The silkiness of the soup is balanced by the crunch of the spicy pepitas. This is the recipe that Tricia and I used for our recent Friday Night Dinner at the Natural Gourmet Institute for Food & Health.

Southwestern Squash Soup
Serves 10
(1cup servings)

1 small onion, diced
2 garlic cloves,minced
3 tbsp olive oil
1 celery , diced
1 carrot,diced
2 tsp cumin
1 1/2 tsp ancho chili powder
1/2 tsp Spanish smoked paprika
1/4 tsp white pepper
2 tbsp lime
6 cups diced butternut squash, tossed in EVOO, s&p and roasted (about 4 lbs of squash)
8 cups veg stock

Saute onions and garlic in olive oil until transclucent. Add celery and carrot and continue sautéing until tender. Add spices and mix well and sauté until spices are fragrant. Add roasted squash and broth and simmer for 15 minutes. Let cool a bit and process in Vitamix until smooth. Add more broth, chile powder, salt and white pepper as needed.

Tofu Sour Cream

Yield: 1 1/2 cups or 24 tbsp
Serving Size: 1tbsp

4 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp lime juice
1 pound firm tofu
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbsp canola or safflower oil
1/2 tsp minced garlic

1. Crumble tofu and transfer to blender.
2. Add the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth.
salt and white pepper, to taste

Spiced Pepitas
Makes 2 1/2 cups

1/4 cup olive oil
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/4 tsp ground smoked paprika
1/4 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp chipotle powder
2 1/2 cups raw pepitas (hulled green pumpkin seeds)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
In a small bowl mix together nuts and oil and toss to coat nuts. In another bowl, mix salt and spices and mix in with nuts to coat.
Spread pepita mixture in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until golden and fragrant and seeds are almost completely dry, 10 to 15 minutes. Place baking sheet on a wire rack to cool.
Spiced pepitas may be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 2 weeks.

For the Sake of Celebrating Heritage

2009-11-12T18:28:00.000-08:00

Until recently, my boyfriend's standard but affectionate retort to my frequent health-conscious soliloquies was "stop being a food snob". An article about favorite culinary rules by Mark Bittman, NYT's foodie, provided a superlative, new come-back for David; "don't yuck my yum". I chuckle each time these words leave his lips. I admit that I am stopped in my tracks and give serious thought to whether I am being inconsiderate or merely expressing informed concern about the unhealthful culinary habits that have besieged our nation and that periodically intrude like an unwelcome, surprise visitor upon the sanctuary I call home. Lurking in the sidelines, waiting to pounce upon my loved ones in a moment of weakness.

Unbeknownst to me, today I would be confronted with a challenge of ethical proportions. A huge "food snob", yum-yucker moment that I would create and for which I would have ultimate control. Well, sort of.

My mom's birthday is this weekend and I thought it would be nice to celebrate her German heritage by giving her a gift basket laden with goodies from the home country that she left nearly 45 years ago and has returned to only twice. I stopped at a German food vendor in Grand Central Station on my way home from work.

I was overwhelmed by the images of stollen, a German Christmas bread dusted with powdered sugar, pfeffernusse, a gingery cookie coated with a sugary-sweet, hardened white icing, marzipan dipped in dark chocolate and Advent Calendars which decorated the home of my youth and tangibly marked each passing day in December before Santa arrived. The packages of dark, dense pumpernickel bread called me and conjured up memories from my youth of slices slathered thickly with liverwurst and thin slivers of onions lovingly presented to me by my mom. I suppose for some peanut butter and jelly sandwiches on Wonder Bread have the same effect. I don't know having been sheltered from such things until my tweens. As an aside, once I entered my rebellious tweens stage, peanut butter and jelly would not suffice unless adequately smothered in Fluff, a sickenly-sweet marshmallow concoction.

Back at the German food vendor I grabbed up a bunch of memories, whipped out my credit card and headed for the subway mumbling about the additional weight my purchases had created. As I sat on the subway, smitten with the idea of the delight I would soon bestow upon my mom, I pulled packages out of the bags and began to read the listing of ingredients. Should I have been surprised by the high fructose corn syrup and other items that I typically "yuck"? I momentarily paused to think about what I had done and how I would justify my purchases while maintaining a staunch anti-processed food position. In a moment of clarity, I decided to chalk it up to the sake of celebrating heritage. Hours later, I am still okay with my transgressions.

Results and Recipe for Amish Cinnamon Bread

2009-11-12T17:55:00.000-08:00

The smell of cinnamon is wafting through the air and I am eagerly awaiting the quick passage of time so I can sink my teeth into a piece of Amish Cinnamon Bread. Since I am "dieting", I have to be very strategic about how I approach the eating of the bread. The goal is maximize my level of satiation with the smallest piece possible. I've thought about it a lot over the past 24 hours. I will allow the bread to cool only enough to enable it to easily release from the pan. While still warm, I will find the crispiest, gooeiest, most cinnamony corner of the bread and eat only that. I am hopeful that my will-power will cooperate. If not, my back up plan is to consume only the corners thereby limiting what's available to consume.

As promised, below is the recipe for the Amish Cinnamon Bread that I blogged about earlier. I am still debating who the four recipients of the remaining batter starter will be.......I may save one for myself and start the process all over again and bestow a few mini-loaves on friends and family for the holidays.

Amish Cinnamon Bread

Important Notes:
Do not use any type of metal spoon, bowl or pan (glass and plastic ONLY)
Do not refrigerate
If air gets in the bag, let it out.
It is normal for the batter to rise, bubble and ferment.

Day 1-Do nothing (this is the day you receive your batter starter. Go by the dates on the bag)
Day 2-Mush the bag
Day 3-Mush the bag
Day 4-Mush the bag
Day 5-Mush the bag
Day 6-Add to the bag, 1 cup flour, 1 cup sugar and 1 cup milk. Mush the bag. I used whole wheat flour and organic sugar and milk.
Day 7-Mush the bag
Day 8-Mush the bag
Day 9-Mush the bag
Day 10-Follow the instructions below:

1. Pour the entire contents of the bag into a non-metal bowl.
2. Add: 1 1/2 cups flour, 1 1/2 cups sugar, 1 1/2 cups milk. Mix well with wood or plastic spoon.
3. Label 4 one gallon bags with "Day 1" and the date. Fill each of these four bags with 1 cup of the batter mixture. These are starters for you to pass on to your friends/co-workers. If you like, you may keep one for yourself. (Note: if you keep a bag for yourself, you will be making bread every 10th day, if you don't keep one for yourself, you will have to wait until you receive another starter from a friend, as the Amish are the only ones who know how to create a starter).
4. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
5. To the remaining batter add:

3 eggs
1 cup oil
1/3 cup milk
1/3 cup sugar
2 tsp cinnamon
1/2 tsp vanilla
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
2 cups flour
1 large box of vanilla instant pudding

6. Grease the bottom and sides of 2 large loaf pans. Mix 1/2 cup sugar and 1 1/2 tsp cinnamon in a small bowl. Dust the insides of each pan with half of the mixture, making sure to cover the bottom and sides well.
7. Pour the batter evenly into the 2 pans and sprinkle remaining cinnamon and sugar mixture over the top.
8. Bake for approximately 1 hour (until toothpick comes out clean). Cool until the bread loosens from the pan easily. Turn out onto a serving dish.

okay, I had more than a corner but David helped me on this piece!

Food Chain Letter--Amish Cinnamon Bread

2009-11-12T16:56:00.000-08:00

I generally avoid the chain letter trap by simply hitting the delete button on my keyboard. The guilt quickly passes...out of sight, out of mind. Well, about ten days ago I was presented with a chain letter challenge that I could not ignore so easily. Upon arriving at work, I found a ziploc bag containing a small amount of gooey-looking dough and a folded up letter containing detailed instructions for an Amish Cinnamon Bread. The gift-giver explained that the ziploc bag held secret ingredients for a starter that only the Amish knew how to create. I felt bamboozled.

With my already hectic life, did I have the time to care for this treasure? The recipe included 10 consecutive days of tasks before the dough could be baked into bread. The tasks were simple enough but I was quickly reminded of how happy I was that my sons are now grown and don't require the amount of daily attention that I would have to pay to this dough in order for it to fully develop.

As I pushed the ziploc bag to the corner of my desk, I questioned whether I was up for the task. I tried to avoid the bag but knew that it could not be left alone over the weekend lest the hard work of all those who came before me would be for naught. I decided right then and there that it was my obligation to carry on the tradition. I do admit that I was curious about just how the Cinnamon Bread would turn out.

It's 10 days later, and I've followed the instructions fairly closely; I tinkered with a few of the ingredients to make the recipe a bit more healthy. I'm too tired to bake my batch of the bread tonight but I have portioned out the starter into ziploc bags to gift to four unsuspecting friends who, in 10 days can do the same. Tomorrow I will see if I cared for my adopted dough well enough to be rewarded with a well-risen freshly baked loaf of cinnamon bread. I have a slight sense of guilt knowing that I will foist upon friends an obligation that at first I was not prepared to assume. Perhaps, I will lure them with a sample of my loaf if it turns out okay?

I will post about the results of my experiment and will include a full version of the recipe although you will have to wait until you receive a starter from a friend to try it out for yourself.

Dark Chocolate Cayenne Mousse with Orange-Scented Cashew Nut Cream and Sweetened Cinnamon Tortilla Crisp

2009-11-06T21:32:00.000-08:00

This is the next of my series of posts and recipes from my recent experience as co-chef at the Natural Gourmet Institute for Food and Health's Friday Night Dinner Program. I shared this evening with my culinary school classmate and Gourmetrix food blogger, Tricia, a group of enthusiastic and creative students and additional classmates of mine, Ellen and Natalia. Ellen is a recently-retired commander in the Navy who is pursuing her culinary passion through philanthropy and education of children. She also has a great blog. Natalia is a gifted, Colombian-born spirit who spends her time perfecting her skills as a caterer and event planner for her hand-crafted business, Cook-Life.

Being an omnivore, I take special delight in my daily discoveries of unique applications of ingredients. In this case, I was reminded of the versatility of avocados. Rich in health beneficial oils, this creamy fruit transforms itself from a typical guacamole into a velvety dessert. Pomegranite seeds and a cinnamon sugar crispy tortilla chip provided the necessary crunch to balance the smoothness of the mousse and cashew nut cream. Natalia added her own special touches while she intuitively interpreted the effect that Tricia and I sought to achieve with this recipe. It was a true collaboration and one could definitely taste the love that went into the dish.

Cayenne Chocolate Mousse
Yield: 1 quart
Serving size: 1/2 cup
Mousse

4 large under-ripe Hass avocados (about 2 cups diced)
1 ¼ cups maple syrup
4 tblsp coconut oil
4 tsp vanilla
1 1/2 cups cocoa powder
3/4 cup coconut milk
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper, or to taste
garnish of toasted pine nuts and pomegranite seeds

1. Dice avocados.
2. Place all ingredients other than cayenne pepper in mixer or processor.
3. Blend until smooth.
4. Season to taste with cayenne pepper.

Garnish

Agar-Agar Cashew Nut Cream and Sweetened Cinnamon Tortilla Crisps

Agar-Agar Cashew Nut Cream

Yield: 1.5 cups
Serving Size: 2 tblsp

2 tbs agar-agar
2 cups apple juice
1/2 cups cashew butter
agave to taste
4 tablespoons vanilla or orange extract

1. Add agar-agar to juice and bring to boil.
2. Reduce Heat and simmer until dissolved.
3. Cool until firm
4. Add cashew butter, agave and extract and process in a blender or food processor all ingredients until smooth.

Sweetened-Cinnamon Tortilla Strips

Yield: 10 strips
Serving Size: 1 strip

2 Corn Tortillas
1 tsp Cinnamon
1 tsp coconut sugar, maple crystals, or turbinado sugar
1 1/2 tbsps Coconut Oil, melted

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees F.

2. Place coconut oil, cinnamon and sugar in a bowl and mix well. Adjust spices, if desired.

3. Brush each tortilla with oil and spice mixture. Cut each tortilla into 5 strips.

4. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until crisp.

Cilantro-Infused Quinoa

2009-11-06T20:39:00.000-08:00

The series of posts about my recent experience as co-guest chef at the Natural Gourmet Institute of Food and Health's Friday Night Dinner Program continues with the recipe for a herbaceous, vibrantly-colored quinoa speckled with freshly minced cilantro. Quinoa is an ancient, nutty grain packed with nutritional value due to its high protein content. This grain, which is gaining in popularity, provides a nice transition and alternative to cous cous which shares a familiar textural quality.

What otherwise would be a simple dish is taken up a notch by layering flavors and techniques. This recipe has at least 3 steps that I consider key: toasting the quinoa in garlic, shallots and olive oil; infusing the quinoa with a flavor and colorful broth; and lastly, what may be the most important technique when converting a recipe for 8 into one for 100: holding your breath and crossing your fingers that the quinoa will be perfectly cooked. Cooking for a crowd requires some math skill and a bit of food science doesn't hurt. How many quarts or gallons in that 96 cups of broth and what happens during the cooking process that might affect the amount of broth used? Ugh! But don't be afraid. Honestly, when was the last time you had to cook for 100? Or, do what I do sometimes...whip up separate, smaller batches over which you have more control.

Briefly toasting the quinoa in olive oil prior to adding the cooking liquid seals the outer most part of the grain diffusing and delaying the effects of the penetration of liquid and creating fluffy and distinctive grains. The outer part of the grain is al dente while the inner core is more tender. To achieve a more sticky consistency, one can omit this step. The same technique can be applied to rice.

Those who are developing their culinary confidence or who are simply short on time, can eliminate the herbal broth and just use store-bought vegetable or chicken stock or water maintaining a ratio of approximately 2 cups of liquid to 1 cup of quinoa. I often cook up an extra batch using water and enjoy it for breakfast topped with milk (almond, soy, rice or dairy) and a sprinkling of cinnamon-sugar. A nice alternative to oatmeal and very kid-friendly!

For more posts and recipes from our Friday Night Dinner, please check out Gourmetrix, the blog of my culinary school classmate and co-chef, Tricia.

Cilantro Infused Quinoa

Yield: 4 Cups
Serving Size: 1/2 cup

Quinoa

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 cups organic quinoa, rinsed
1 1/2 cups Carrot Onion Stock* or store-bought vegetable stock
2 1/2 cups Herbal Broth*
Salt and Pepper
1/2 cup coarsely chopped cilantro
Garnish of brunoised red pepper

1. Heat olive oil in a medium saucepan over low heat and cook the garlic until translucent.
2. Add the quinoa and stir to coat.
3. Add the water and herbal broth and season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Bring to a boil then reduce to a simmer.
5. Cover until all liquid is absorbed (about 15-20 minutes).
6. Stir in the cilantro immediately before serving.
7. Garnish

Herbal Broth

2 cups Carrot Onion Stock* or store-bought vegetable stock
1 cup fresh spinach, stemmed and washed
1 cup fresh cilantro, picked and washed
Salt and Pepper
1/2 teaspoon agave, or to taste

1. Place the vegetable stock, spinach and cilantro in blender and puree.
2. Strain through a fine strainer.
3. Season to taste with salt, pepper and agave. Makes 2 1/2 cups.

Carrot Onion Stock
Yield: 6-7 quarts

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 head garlic, smashed and peeled
6 onions, peeled, coarsely chopped (approx. 1/2 inch pieces)
6 medium-large carrots, peeled, coarsely chopped
1 head celery, coarsely chopped
4 shallots, peeled, coarsely chopped
Bouquet Garni:
1 fresh thyme sprig
1 bay leaf
1/2 bunch parsley stems

1. In medium stockpot, heat oil. Add vegetables and sweat.
2. Add water to cover (7-8 quarts) and bouquet garni. Bring to boil and skim off foam. Simmer, partially covered, for 1 - 1 1/2 hours. Strain immediately through fine mesh strainer.

2009-11-06T19:45:00.000-08:00

Tonight, a former culinary school classmate and dear friend, Tricia, and I successfully executed a three-course Southwestern, vegan meal as guest chefs at the Natural Gourmet Institute for Food and Health. Our menu, developed over the course of several months, included unique recipes inspired by my love for intuitive, accessible cooking and Tricia's love and travels to Santa Fe. The evening began with a Southwestern Butternut Squash Soup with Tofu Crema Drizzle and Toasted Seasoned Pepitas, was followed by an entree of Cilantro-Infused Quinoa, Heirloom Pinto Bean, Poblano and Spinach Ragout, Spicy Orange Ancho-Chile Grilled Portobello Strips and a side of Jicama Red Cabbage Citrus Slaw and concluded with a sweet ending consisting of an avocado-based Dark Chocolate Mousse topped with a dollop of Orange-Scented Cashew Butter Cream and a generous sprinkling of pomegranate seeds and toasted pine nuts.

In addition to being an amazing cook, Tricia is a creative food blogger. She and I are delighted to share our collective recent experience and recipes with you through a series of posts here and on Gourmetrix.

At first blush, the recipe for the Ancho-Chile Grilled Portobello Strips appears a bit intimidating. The key to this dish lies in the complex flavors of the marinade which is merely a combination of two recipe concepts; a tangy vinagairette and a spicy rub. The luscious, syrupy citrus reduction of freshly-squeezed oranges plays center stage for the vinaigerette which is balanced by the spicy smokiness of the ancho chiles and smoked paprika that dominate the savory rub. What makes this recipe intuitive is that it can acommodate any taste preference by tinkering with the primary ingredients. It's accessible because it can be made in advance and the portobellos require a minimal amount of time marinading before grilling or pan searing. The marinade can also be used on proteins, such as pork loin or beef.

I hope you are inspired to test out this recipe. It is certain to impress your family and friends.

Spicy Orange Ancho-Chile Grilled Portobello Strips
Yield: 50 strips
Serving Size: 5-6 strips

10 Portobello mushroom caps, gills scraped, cut into 1 inch slices
Spicy Orange Ancho-Chile Marinade*

1. Pour marinade in large nonreactive container.
2. Place portobello slices in marinade and gently mix to coat.
3. Marinade for 30 minutes.
4. Heat grill pan.
5. Place portobello slices (meaty-white edges down) on grill pan and grill on each side (2-3 minutes) until grill marks appear.

Spicy Orange Ancho-Chile Marinade
Spicy Orange Vinaigrette*
Ancho-Chile Marinade*
Lime juice (1/2 lime)

1. Combine Vinaigrette and Marinade.
2. Add lime juice and blend.

Spicy Orange Vinaigrette

Yield: 3 cups
Serving Size: 3 cups

4 cups fresh orange juice (approx. 8 oranges)
1/2 cup Spanish sherry vinegar
4 tsps Dijon mustard
4 tsps ancho chile powder
2 cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper

1. In a medium nonreactive saucepan over high heat, reduce the orange juice to about 1/4. Let cool slightly.
2. Combine the orange syrup, vinegar, mustard, and ancho chile powder in blender and blend for 30 seconds.
3. With the motor running, slowly add the oil until the dressing emulsifies.
4. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Ancho-Chile Marinade
4 Tblsp maple crystals
2 tbsp ancho chile powder
2 tsp salt
1 tblsp smoked paprika
1tblsp onion powder
1tblsp garlic powder
1 tbsp dried thyme
1 tbsp black pepper
1 tsp finely crumbled dried thyme
1/2 cup canola oil
1/2 cup rice wine vinegar

1. Combine all ingredients and blend.

Cooking on My Anniversary

2009-10-30T07:41:00.000-07:00

As I approach the anniversary of graduating from culinary school, I can hardly believe that another year has come and gone so quickly. This year has been heavily speckled with fond memories of family, friends, food and fun. The fun continues this week when I will be a guest chef at the Natural Gourmet Institute for Food and Health, as part of their Friday Night Dinner program. I will share the kitchen with a former classmate, Tricia, and will have the helping able hands of two other classmates, Nati and Ellen, and several enthusiastic students. I look forward to seeing many familiar faces on November 6th and sharing in our Southwestern inspired menu:

A Night in Santa Fe

November 6, 2009

Southwestern Butternut Squash Soup with Tofu Crema
and Spiced Pepitas

Grilled Portobello Strips with Ancho-Orange Glaze
served on Pinto Bean, Spinach, and Roasted Poblano Ragu,
with Cilantro infused Quinoa and
Jicama-Red Cabbage Slaw

Chile-Chocolate Mousse with Cashew Nut Creme,
Toasted Pine Nuts, Pomegranate Seeds and
a Cinnamon-Sweet Tortilla Crisp

Saffron Mussels and Seared Black Cod in 30 Minutes

2009-10-26T17:14:00.000-07:00

Tonight I was inspired to create a tasty, healthy meal with a minimum amount of fuss. Usually, Monday evenings are reserved for a bit of quiet, relaxing time with family after a hectic weekend. But I had purchased mussels and black cod from the fish market yesterday and didn't want them to sit in the refrigerator another day.

I started this dish by layering in ingredients for a flavorful saffron broth. First, I sauteed onions, fennel, diced carrot and garlic in olive oil. I then added a colorful melange of organic cherry and teardrop tomatoes that I bought from an organic farm during my weekend tour of the North Fork of Long Island. I poured in some fish stock, infused a few silky threads of saffron and reduced the broth mixture on high heat until it was slightly thickened. To this, I added the mussels which steamed quite quickly.

I separately seared pieces of black cod, a luscious fish with a buttery flesh. I played with a bit of plating, serving the cod on a bed of chopped, sauteed swiss chard (stems and leaves), surrounded by mussels glistening with a saffron colored and scented broth. Plating food is an art which requires not only an eye but patience. For me, it is best reserved for weekends but I was quite satisfied with how the meal came together in such a short amount of time. David enjoyed the how the flavor profiles of the various ingredients seemed to sing in unison so I can't ask for much more.

Trick or Treat?

2009-10-25T12:15:00.000-07:00

Why trick kids into eating their vegetables by disguising them when they can be viewed as a treat? We all have to eat so why not make it fun?

I like this one and plan to incorporate it into my series of cooking workshops for parents and children.

Establishing Roots

2009-10-16T18:08:00.000-07:00

This weekend started out rather ordinary, except we fled from NYC a day earlier than planned to avoid the potential 50 mph winds of the impending Nor'Easter and threat of cancellation of ferry service from Woods Hole to Martha's Vineyard. The potentiality that we would miss the 3rd Annual MV Food & Wine Festival was unfathomable. I had never been before and it was to be my opportunity to connect with the MV culinary world that had heretofore eluded me.

After goofing around about our impulsive purchase of that Snuggie (blanket with arm holes), and a full-days work, David and I headed to downtown Edgartown to begin our foodie weekend at the Opening Reception of the Food & Wine Festival. I was lured by the opportunity to meet a Bravo Top Chef Finalist, Stefan, a few cooking demos and tastings.

We were blessed to have lively companions at our table. Two couples from Florida who summer on the Vineyard and a couple of year-rounders. As the wine and food flowed, so did the conversation.
The evening began with a tasting of a Fall Salad, composed of frisee, spinach, fennel shavings, roasted pears, blue cheese and crispy onions paired with a N.V.Cateller Rose Cava from Spain. Next, we were enchanted with a cooking demonstration and tasting by Bravo Top Chef Season Five Finalist, Stefan Richter. The perfectly cooked cod was paired with a 2008 Joseph Carr, Chardonay from Napa Valley. The tasting also include sage and roasted garlic seared beef tenderloin paired with a 2008 Joseph Carr, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cheese Plate paired with a 2005 Bellum Providencia Monastrell from Spain.

Next on the agenda was an auction which, at first, I did not pay much attention too. There description of the item to be auctioned was blurred by the surrounding conversations and the wine which flowed freely. At some point, I began to take note. Perhaps it was the reference to a wine estate, Harlan, that I had been introduced to earlier this year? The prize included a signature magnum purported to be valued at over $5,000, 4 nights in Sonoma, several visits to Sonoma valley vineyards, dinners at exclusive restaurants for which the ordinary Jane or Kiki could not ever get reservations. The package continued to grow as bidding huddled in the several thousand dollar range. Little did I know that David and I were about to firmly establish roots in the Vineyard Community.

But we are both competitive spirits at heart and we could envision a trip West with our boys. Wining and dining as celebrities do. I'm not much of a math whiz but as I attempted to calculate the value of the trip, I soon realized what a bargain we were presented with. It's a bit of a blur but I think we got in on the action where bids were hovering around $3,000. We were in and within seconds, all eyes were on the big guy in the green Ralph Lauren sweater. Okay, we agreed that $4,000 was our limit, then it was $6,000, then $12,000 and then $20,000. There was much ooohing and aaahing in the interim and occassional visits to our table with remarks, such as "I don't know who you are but the MV Museum truly appreciates you.". It became a two person bidding war and I hate to lose. The emotions at our table ran high and we were encouraged to back out. At $25,000 my senses brightenened and I had to admit defeat. I almost approved of one last bid when the auctioneer announced that they were throwing in dinner for four at the French Laundry. If you don't know about this place, you must immediately google it.

Although we did not win the auction, we met many members of the board and trustees of the museum. I have a commitment from Bravo Top Chef Finalist, Stefan, that I can cook with him in his kitchen and that he will host a dinner for me, David and our 14 closest friends in California. As I sit here, enjoying a plate of pork chops, apple & onion ragout,turnips, cabbage and quinoa, I am savoring our evening and am looking forward to seeing new friends tomorrow as the Food & Wine Festival continues. I am also savoring the fact that several members of the museum are working with auction donee to recreate a package that David and I will gladly purchase for a good cause. Excessive, compulsive behaviour and doing what you're most passionate about does pay off.

Culinary Explorations on Martha's Vineyard

2009-10-11T10:19:00.000-07:00

Martha's Vineyard has become a home away from home and a much needed escape from the weekly grind of urban living. Don't get me wrong I am a NYC girl at heart but, with each visit, I find it more difficult to leave the Vineyard for long. The Vineyard offers something for all and with each visit I discover new treasures. I am especially drawn to the connection between land, food and community.

Vineyarders don't need legislation, regulations, independent films, etc. to know that we need to control how we use our land and waters and what an important role local, sustainable farming and fishing has in this regard. People understand the many reasons to buy local. Fresher, more nutrient-rich foods, support for the community and encouraging and preserving tradition.

Artisans display their island-made goods at the weekly farmers' market and at the seasonal artisans' fairs. Self-serve farm stands dot the winding roads. There are many working farms where one can buy organic eggs and poultry, grass-fed lamb, beef, pork and seasonal vegetables.
My family recently enjoyed lamb burgers with a cucumber, mint raita made from Allen Farm lamb. I could taste the loving care that went into raising these animals.

At the end of a long day, fishermen unload their day's catch on the docks of Menemsha. There is something very special about sitting with a friend on an old crate behind a fish market, taking in the salty air, eating oysters, clams and lobster and watching these guys in action. I know that I will later share the experience with family and friends over a warm bowl of bouillabaisse.

Reincarnation of Green Market Odds and Ends

2009-10-11T05:57:00.000-07:00

In my prior post, I was left with the challenge of finding a use for the remains of last week's Green Market purchases. I had an onion, a bunch of baby carrots and radishes, a handful of green beans and cauliflower florets, some potatoes, zucchini, and beets. After much thought, I decided that I wanted low-maintenance comfort food. I ended up with a one-pot chicken dish and an enhanced vegetable soup. Fairly boring but easy and quite tasty.

To "enhance" my vegetable soup, I just added more vegetables; cauliflower and zucchini. I added a bit of vegetable stock and re-seasoned.

For the chicken dish, I browned the chicken in one of my favorite fancy pans (a Le Creuset). I removed the chicken and cooked onions til translucent. I tossed in sliced potatoes, baby carrots, garlic and herbs. Finally, I put the browned chicken pieces back in the pot and threw in the green beans that I had forgotten that I had. Some veg stock and a trip to the oven was all that was required for this one-pot meal.
We filled up on the vegetable soup so we haven't yet eaten the chicken dish. I guess I don't have to cook today, if I don't want to. But, of course, I want to. And, besides, I still need to find a use for the beets and radishes. This provides a good excuse to visit one of the many farms on Martha's Vineyard, such as Morning Glory Farm or Allen Farm to find fresh goat or sheep's milk cheese for a beet salad. I'll take the radishes to snack on during the drive.

Green Market Odds and Ends

2009-10-10T08:10:00.001-07:00

Most weekends when I'm at home in NYC, I hop out of bed early, drink more coffee than is necessary given my natural state of hyperness, and am off running (not literally) usually without a specific destination in mind. I do tend to end up at Union Square Green Market but there's been annoying construction going on and less space for traffic flow. It interferes with my browsing and I find myself constantly bumping into people with strollers and dogs and bags. I never imagined that food shopping would be stressful but I can empathize a bit more with the average joe who eats out of necessity and would be perfectly content never having to enter a supermarket or own a pot or pan.

I may have inadvertently found a partial solution until the construction is completed. As the Green Market day nears to a close, many vendors offer pre-packaged "bargain bags" of produce. For about $2, you can get bags full of potatoes, onions, squash, green beans, broccoli and more. I can get many needs satisfied by visiting one or two vendors and then I can make a b-line out of the market. There are several downsides, including loss of connection to the food that comes from careful, personal selection and frenetic, unfocused energy that I can only imagine that one might experience shopping on Christmas Eve. Yes, I am focused on finding the one or two vendors but as I grab the bargain bags, I have no idea what I plan to do with the produce. I have no chance to dream of the dishes that might find themselves on the family dinner table. Do I really need a whole bag of squash this week?

To complicate matters, I'm on a weight loss kick that I want to last so I need simple but extremely flavorful options to carry me through a busy week. I need and want to be organized otherwise I'll end up eating steamed veggies and plain salad and I'll be back to my regular eating before the week is done.

Well, it's Saturday and I am left with odds and ends from last week's visit to the Green Market. I've already made a simple swiss chard which I served with pan-seared tilapia, curried yellow and green squash with brown rice (pretty easy: saute onions and garlic in xvoo, add a diced roma tomato, add curry powder, salt and pepper, toss in sliced squash, a bit of veg stock and cook til done), shrimp and broccoli (also easy just saute with onions and ginger and drizzle with sesame oil and a splash of umeboshi vinegar and tamari), green beans sauteed with shallots and bacun served over quinoa (bacun is a vegan product which I don't know why I own but, in the absence of the real thing, it was a decent addition to the beans) and vegetable soup which contained everything but the kitchen sink (onions, celery, carrots, potatoes, green beans, cauliflower and beet greens and other hearty greens).

I am left with an onion, a bunch of radishes, baby carrots, a few potatoes, two zucchinis, cauliflower florets and several large beets. Perhaps a vegetable strata? simple roasted vegetables? a beet salad? hash browns? As I munch on some raw radishes as I type, I'm thinking of how I'll end up reincarnating these beautiful odds and ends.

Mourning the End of a Love Affair

2009-10-09T13:02:00.000-07:00

I recently received the news that Gourmet magazine was closing its doors and that the November issue would be the last. The news evoke strange feelings within. I felt a swell of emotion that I could not quite place my finger on. I am still in denial. How could this be true? Gourmet is a culinary institution. It was a foundation upon which I was able to build my culinary knowledge. It took me places that I dreamed about going. And to places that I now dream about after being exposed to them in Gourmet.

For nearly 20 years, I have cherished that time of the month when a small gift appeared in my mailbox. Unwrapping the protective plastic covering was almost ceremonial. I was careful not to bend any of the edges of the magazine. Sometimes I found myself stroking the cover enhancing the sensual experience. Sometimes, I'd just endlessly gaze at the pictures and let my mind wander waiting for that moment of inspiration. I tend not to cook from recipes but I can say that I've often been tempted by Gourmet to do so. I believe I've read almost all of the recipes in Gourmet magazine and have mentally re-created the dishes. They have informed me. They have sparked my culinary curiosity, taught me about food composition and strengthened my fearless approach to cooking and desire to travel to all corners of the world in search for a deeper understanding of culinary culture.

I frequently wondered about the people featured in sometimes exotic places always appearing to be filled with enjoyment as they shared beautifully prepared food. I yearned to be part of this crowd. I knew one day I, too, would travel to the Mediterranean and explore Pantelleria, an island off of Sicily known by some as the land of capers. And I'd be surrounded by family, friends and food. It's on my bucket list. Call me a geek but who could resist a chance at seeing first hand where and how capers grow?

I just received the October issue of Gourmet. The cover bears a single red candied apple. It is simple yet stunning. Mouthwatering. It is screaming for me to tear off the plastic wrap and dive right into the issue and devour its contents. But for now, I am going to resist the urge and wait for a quieter moment when I can truly savour each morsel...alone. Perhaps, I am deferring the inevitable? Hanging on to the last threads of a relationship that is nearing an end?

I suppose I will work through the various stages of mourning and come to accept the fact that Gourmet is no more. Through this process, I am thankful for my stacks of old issues of the magazine that I've grouped seasonally. I will continue the tradition of pulling out every October and November issue just before Thanksgiving. Scanning the recipes with mounting anticipation and inspiration while knowing well that I will likely not alter my traditional menu but going through the ritual just in case. Maybe this year to show my respects, I will invite family and friends that will not be with me for Thanksgiving over for a meal before or after Thanksgiving comprised entirely of Gourmet holiday recipes. Yes, this is good living.

Fish Tacos with Avocado Crema and Citrus Slaw Served with Stewed Black Beans and Cilantro Brown Rice

2009-07-04T14:06:00.001-07:00

Each year, I look forward to the Fourth of July weekend on Martha's Vineyard. It's a reunion of sorts for our sons and their friends and it gives me an opportunity to cook breakfast and dinner to a houseful of hungry young adults who share in my adventurous palate. This year, we have a much more manageable number of guests. With just nine of us compared eighteen or so in years past, the house feels full of spirit without bursting at the seams. And there are far fewer Nike's to trip over as the boys are all extreme sneaker heads.

For our first dinner, I wanted something simple, light and reflective of a New England summer. But as I searched the aisles of the supermarket, Mediterranean ingredients kept catching my eye. There was feta and fennel. I could make a refreshing watermelon salad, shaved fennel, red onions sprinkled with crumbled feta cheese. I loaded the ingredients into my cart but I still longed for something with more of an island feel. That's when I spotted cod which was on sale. Always a bonus when feeding a crowd. My mind went into a different direction...fish tacos. I grabbed six pounds of cod, 36 tortillas, avocados, sour cream and limes. I marinaded the cod in a chipotle and olive oil rub and then lightly floured and pan fried it. For crunch, I decided to make a citrus slaw of shredded white cabbage and carrots tossed with an orange and cilantro vinaigrette. I blended 2 avocados with about 1/4 cup of sour creme and the juice of one lime for an avocado crema. I made two simple sides; brown rice with cilantro and stewed black beans. By all accounts, dinner was quite a success. There will be a Mediterranean-inspired dinner in our future but it will have to wait.

Thai Fourth of July

2009-07-04T14:06:00.000-07:00

Today when most are celebrating our country's independence with backyard BBQ's, I decided to forgo the burgers, ribs and chicken and take a culinary journey to another continent, Asia. After much consternation in the supermarket, I was inspired to make a stir fry in order to use the leftover cilantro brown rice from last night's dinner. My culinary mind wandered a bit and I ended up with Japanese, panko-breaded, spicy Sriracha marinated chicken tenders and veggies sauteed with a lemongrass, chile infused coconut curry sauce.

I sliced green beans, carrots and broccoli and blanched them quickly in boiling water and then immersed them in a ice-water bath to stop the cooking. I separately, sauteed onions and red peppers in olive oil which I set aside and later tossed with the blanched vegetables. The fiery sauce for the vegetables was born of lemongrass, ginger and chile peppers simmered in a broth of coconut milk diluted with a bit of water. I would have preferred a veggie or chicken broth but I had none on hand and refused to battle the holiday Vineyard traffic to go to the supermarket. All ingredients were tossed together to create a flavorful, colorful and healthful dish. Blanching the veggies added a nice textural crunch to the meal which was served over cilantro brown rice.

Yummy but Not So Pretty Kasha Sweet Potato Zucchini Burgers

2009-06-30T05:49:00.000-07:00

I admit, I've had a difficulty in finding time to post lately. That's not to say that I haven't had lots of amazing moments that I plan on blogging about. My first sight of a cherry tree at a farm in New Jersey; a tasty brunch at Salt followed by the screening of Food Inc at the Film Forum; a cooking workshop on cooking with local ingredients as well as one on tea smoking and many more. I am looking forward to having some quiet time on Martha's Vineyard this weekend so I can properly share these experiences. In the meanwhile, I want to share an idea for a veggie burger that developed from my desire to clean out my refrigerator last night. I'm also trying to do vegan this week in anticipation all the burgers, ribs, chicken, pork loin, sausage etc that I will certainly consume over the Fourth of July long weekend.

I had kasha that I inadvertently made a few days before when I was craving tabbouleh which is not made from kasha but bulgur. Not sure why I confused the grains but I guess the kasha was in my pantry screaming to be used. I had one small sweet potato, several pieces of green and yellow zucchini and spring onions from the local cooking workshop. I diced and boiled the sweet potato and then quick sauteed it with the onions and shredded zucchini in olive oil. In a separate bowl, I mixed the sauteed vegetables with the pre-cooked, cold kasha. I seasoned with a few tablespoons of tamari (similar to soy sauce), salt and pepper and a healthy amount (1 cup) of minced parsley and then added about 1/4 cup almond butter which served as a binder for the ingredients. I formed the mixture into patties and pan fried. The burgers were a deep, golden brown and crispy on the outside and a bit creamy on the inside. I enjoyed the texture; it was reminiscent of potato pancakes, yet crispier and slightly thicker. I served the burgers with traditional ketchup and also tried a chipotle mayo which I enjoyed as well.

I found that refrigerating the mixture helped make firmer burgers which I am now enjoying for breakfast sans ketchup or chipotle mayo!

The Road to Katama

2009-05-25T14:33:00.001-07:00

This afternoon, David and I ventured out to Katama, or South Beach. The bright sun and cool breeze were breathtaking. We dipped our toes in the frigid waters and longingly reminisced about the upcoming days we'd spend here over the summer. I can't believe Memorial Day is finally here...the unofficial start of Summer 2009. Today, we passed on the traditional BBQ and instead just took a leisurely drive around Katama and Edgartown. On our way, we passed the Farm Institute, a working farm that hosts an array of educational and volunteer programs.
We were a bit envious when we saw trucks parked on the beach off in the distance at the tip of the beach that once connected Katama to Chappaquidik. The sandbar washed away several years ago and now these areas are seperated by the Edgartown Bay. We knew well that people were fishing, clamming and grilling.

We stopped downtown and gazed at the beautiful homes built during the days of whaling. Immaculate white structures framed by black shutters. After the temptation of Murdick's Fudge, we could not resist a taste of Mad Martha's ice cream. I had the maple walnut and David had two scoops, simply chocolate and something with Snickers.

We debated continuing our holiday drive but opted to head back to the house, cook dinner and begin the dreaded task of packing up the car for our journey back to NYC at the crack of dawn. We will leave with many memories and an appetite to return again in a few weeks.

Everything and the Kitchen Sink

2009-05-25T10:53:00.000-07:00

Our last day on the Vineyard always presents a culinary challenge. What perishable goods can I use up before we leave? What can we freeze? And, what can be toted back to NYC in a cooler if we don't plan to return soon enough? Anyone who knows me knows that I hate wasting food so throwing anything out is not much of an option.

I took an early inventory and mentally focused on the following: sushi-grade tuna from the local fish market, Net Result, vegetables from Morning Glory Farm, including cucumbers, carrots, yellow squash and scallions and herbs. I subconsciously noted that we had a few asparagus spears left and a package of homemade chicken sausage. We also had basil and fresh mozzarella. All this remaining food is partially the result of my 2-day hiatus from cooking when we first arrived.

I decided we would have a light lunch of seared tuna and salad. I lightly oiled the tuna and then dredged it in a mixture of ground ginger, salt, pepper and white sesame seeds. I seared it a few minutes on each side in a very hot pan lightly coated with oil (I used olive because that's what I had although I'd recommend something with a higher smoke point, like peanut oil or canola oil). As the tuna seared, I prepared a sauce containing tamari, a a naturally-brewed soy sauce, umeboshi plum vinegar, agave, a natural sweetner derived from the agave cactus and some water for thinning and a dash of sesame oil.

Next, I diced cucumber, yellow squash and carrot and chopped the herbs I had on hand. I ultimately tossed these vegetables with a bit of the sauce that I prepared and gently sprinkled them on various lettuces. I placed several pieces of the seared tuna on each plate.

I cleansed my palate with some white wine, yes leftovers from last night, which I was determined not to waste. We're heading to the beach and then I'll get working on dinner. Something tells me it will have an Italian theme given what's left in the fridge.

Breaking Through Cook's Block

2009-05-25T08:30:00.000-07:00

You've heard of writer's block, right? We'll sometimes I get that feeling. I don't know what I want to cook or even if I want to cook. The feeling is pretty random and strikes at the oddest of times. Case in point. When arriving on Martha's Vineyard a few days ago, the first place I wanted to go was Morning Glory Farm, a family-run farm that has a store stocked with fresh produce, baked goods and prepared foods. The farm store also boasts and beautiful assortment of plants and herbs.

I rushed into the store to see what was in stock this morning. The first bin contained the most beautiful lettuce. Young, fresh and glistening with dew. There was purple tipped asparagus, slender carrots with long feathery tops, yellow and green squash, spring onions and more. We filled our basket to the brim. I promised David a delicious meal. Little did I know that it would take me 2 days to get in the mood to cook. He was a bit disappointed and annoyed, but was a good sport. I felt pretty awful as I watched him nibble on supermarket-bought fried chicken (it's an occassional guilty pleasure) but I couldn't drag myself from the couch. I just lay there reading Bon Appetit, Gourmet and Eating Well and watching Food Network. On day 2 he whipped up a pretty good tuna salad with onions and shredded carrots. We ate it on rice crackers and spent the rest of the day just picking at the few snacks that we had around the house.

By nightfall, I was determined to feed my man something healthy even though I still wasn't really in the mood to cook. I pulled out the squash, carrots, asparagus, portobello mushrooms, onions and garlic. I shredded the carrots and squash and diced the onions, asparagus and mushrooms. I minced the garlic. We had angel hair pasta in the cabinet. I could either do a pasta prima vera or could use the sesame oil and tamari, a naturally brewed soy sauce, to do something with an Asian flair. David had no preference. I suppose he was just happy to hear the chopping a sizzling. I decided on Asian.

I was in the midst of an elimination diet to see how my body reacts to wheat, which many people are allergic or sensitive to so I opted for an easy vegetarian dish, curried chick peas with shredded carrots and zucchini, pictured above. It was pretty decent but what's best of all is that I felt good being in the kitchen. I had powered through my cooking block and was ready to take on the world.

Vineyard Hospitality

2009-05-25T07:25:00.000-07:00

I admit that I have a bit of that native New Yorker elitism going on every now and then when I am away from home. Nothing is quite fast enough, diverse enough, available 24/7...you know what I mean!

For some reason, none of this bothers me when I am on Martha's Vineyard, our home away from home. Martha's Vineyard is the antithesis of NYC. There are no fast food chains or corner stores to satisfy the midnight munchies and no wine, beer or liquor sold in stores after 9 pm or at all on certain holidays (Memorial Day). There are no stop lights and crazy yellow cabs are replaced with tourists on motor scooters, erratically manuevering around. People passing by acknowledge you with a smile and a "good morning" or "good afternoon". In NYC, that would be creepy; there would be some ulterior motive to the friendliness of a stranger. Despite that, I still love NYC and I also love that I have easily adapted to this otherness on the Vineyard.

The hospitality, generosity and pride of Vineyarders is amazing. Our good friend, Mica (little Michael), reminds us of this with his surprise visits. We never know what he may have. One day, we found him in our front yard with a board and a knife, gutting freshly caught bluefish and urging us to light up the grill. A few weeks later, we ran into his brother in the parking lot of Stop and Shop supermarket. He called us over, reached into a cooler in the back of his jeep and pulled out a bag a squid. He gave us a few suggestions for how to prepare and was off. It was like Santa in sandy shorts and flip flops.

This week, Mica didn't even call. He stopped by with a dozen or so oysters and just began schucking them as we hovered around the island in the kitchen, catching up on our winter adventures and laughing as we stopped long enough to slurp down these briny oysters. We did enjoy a hearty debate over Vineyard oysters and New Orleans oysters. There was no winning this debate; I will just say they are entirely different but both are incredibly delicious.

Mike stopped by the next day with a few more oysters. On day three, he called and said he was in the neighborhood. Before we could say "come on by", we could hear the gravel of our driveway crunching from the wheels of his truck. Not only did he have a bag of more oysters in one hand but he had a covered pot of something else in the other. He said he had just whipped up a dish and wanted us to try it. I now know what they mean that taste begins with the eyes, then nose, then mouth. As he lifted the lid I could see a whole lobster, mussels, onions and a tomato broth. I could smell a hint of something that reminded me of fennel. It was Pernod, a spirit flavored with anise. At first we ladled a bit of the dish into a bowl but we quickly resorted to just picking shell fish and slurping spoonfuls of flavorful broth directly from the pot. Hey, we are all friends.

I don't know what culinary delights today will bring but I am certain that we will be treated to another visit from our dear friend before we head back to the bright lights and big city. I am staying hungry until then!

Fiddlehead Ferns and Oyster Mushrooms

2009-05-25T05:54:00.000-07:00

I recently made my seasonal first trek to the Union Square Green Market. After months of the greyness and cold of NYC, I almost jumped out of bed this sunny Saturday morning, energized with excitement despite the digital warning that it was only 6:30 a.m.. I was in search of fiddlehead ferns. Fiddlehead ferns are a curious, green, spiral vegetable, similar in taste and color to asparagus but slightly milder. Some say it has hints of artichoke. I suppose I can sense that.

Fiddleheads grow in New England on the sides of riverbeds. There is such a short season to harvest them that I was a bit nervous that I may have missed them this year due to my extended winter slumber. But, the Green Market Gods must have been shining upon me that day. I scored a few pounds of fiddleheads. I quickly made off with my stash, stopping only to grab a few oyster mushrooms, shallots and fresh heavy cream from Ronnybrook Farms, a local family-run dairy located in the Hudson Valley area. I needed to get home; I needed a fix.

I prepared the fiddleheads using easy techniques to create a dish bursting with flavor. First, I put them in boiling, salted water for 5-7 minutes which, according to the green market purveyor, would help remove any remaining debris from the vegetables. While the fiddleheads boiled, I sauteed 2 finely chopped shallots in enough butter to coat the bottom of a medium pan. I also added a bit of olive oil to prevent the butter from burning as quickly. Once softened, I put 1/2 of the sauteed shallots in a separate small pot with 1 cup of heavy cream, salt, pepper and nutmeg, simmering until reduced to 1/2 cup.

While the cream mixture reduced, I added the drained fiddleheads to the pan that contained the remaining sauteed shallots and cooked for several minutes until almost tender. I tossed in the oyster mushrooms and and continued sauteing for a few minutes. To finish the dish, I added the reduced cream mixture and a handful of grated parmigiano reggiano to the vegetables. The family thoroughly enjoyed the dish. The next day, I chopped the vegetables and added them to an omelette!

I saw fiddlehead ferns in a local market on Martha's Vineyard a few days ago. So you may be able to still find some. They are worth the search. If you can't find them, mark your calendar for next year and in the meantime use the above recipe for preparing asparagus with oyster mushrooms. Just cut the asparagus as you desire and skip the step where boil the vegetable.

How Do You Get To Heaven? Take Chef Highway and Don't Look Back.

2009-04-26T19:04:00.000-07:00

The lightbulb went off in Gulfport, Mississippi and continues to shine brightly for me as I savor the memories of one of my most rewarding experiences during my week-long volunteer culinary trip with CulinaryCorps. As captured by the local newspaper, The Sun Herald, we had the opportunity to participate in a pilot edible education program, Grow. Cook. Dine., that seeks to enrich the lives of children by helping them and their families re-connect with where food comes from and re-establish traditions of cooking, eating and enjoying healthy meals at home.

As the doors to the community center that served as host for the event opened, we chefs we greeted to the unrestrained smiles and exuberance of more than 40 5th grade students from Gulfport, Mississippi. The CulinaryCorps team divided into five teams and were each tasked with teaching a morning and afternoon session of portions of the 10-week curriculum . As we paired off with our first group of students and led them into the community center, one excited, adorable girl said under her breath with her hands covering her mouth "this is the best day of my life; I'm in heaven." Tears welled up in my eyes and I had this enormous sense that I was at home.

Once we settled into the classroom, my team had a cooking exercise which began with a reading of a version of the familiar Grimms' Brother story, "Stone Soup", which teaches us the good in collaboration, generosity and honesty. We then taught the students how to stuff vegetable wontons that would be contributed to a community soup. As we waited for the wontons to cook, we asked the students for ideas on other ways to stuff wontons. They were most creative. One girl eagerly raised her hand and suggested a sweet wonton filled with ice cream. Others suggested cheese, sausage, meatballs and apples and cinnamon. All were excited to go home and try out some of their ideas on their family members. The excited, adorable girl fantasized about what kind of wonton her dad who was serving in Iraq would enjoy.

One of the other CulinaryCorps team taught the students how some foods start from seeds and were introduced to sunflower seeds, grains such as millet and oat, and fruits and berries. Their session culminated in a hands-on activity where each student got to select items from a granola bar and build a yogurt parfait. Another team was tasked with exploring the world of tastes. Students were blindfolded and asked to sample various items and try to identify the predominate characteristic: sweet; salty; bitter; sour or umami .

All in all, it was a rewarding day. As we headed back to our temporary home in New Orleans, I chuckled when I saw an exit sign for "Chef Highway." I truly felt that I had found my way on my culinary journey and that there was no turning back.

Liberty's Kitchen--Where Justice is Served!

2009-04-23T08:58:00.000-07:00

Our next project for CulinaryCorps was to cook for and execute a 350-person cocktail party for the Opening Gala Celebration of Liberty's Kitchen, a cafe and coffee shop that will be the foundation of a program that will train at-risk youth the basics of the culinary trade and to foster the development of skills necessary for employment across all vocations, including team work, responsibility, timeliness, excellence, and strong work ethic. Liberty's Kitchen is located on a busy main street directly across from the criminal courthouse and local jail. A tall fence behind the cafe bears a darkened watermark which leaves a lasting reminder of the havoc wreaked by Katrina.
The area is starkly devoid of any local business establishments and a prime candidate for neighborhood revitalization, partially as a result of Katrina. Liberty's Kitchen promises to provide a strong foundation for this second chance effort. This project rang a special chord with me being a member of the legal profession. As a corporate lawyer, my only direct contact with the criminal justice system (that I am willing to share :-)) is limited to periodic calls for potential service as a juror. This project opened a door into this world and a path on which I would leave small footprints.

Our project partner was Chef Reggie, a jovial man with kind eyes and an amazingly caring smile. Chef Reggie reminded us of magnitude of the mission of Liberty's Kitchen and the hope that it could help create remarking, however that hope is not a passive thing. One needs to be engaged.

Our team of 12 volunteer CulinaryCorps chefs was divided into groups responsible for assisting Chef Reggie prep for the passed hors doeuvres, plated tapas and buffet menu items he had designed as well as 4 CulinaryCorps action station items on which we collaborated the prior evening. For most of us, the day began at 9 am (the bakers arrived earlier to begin their many tasks). We were greeted by the site of a large, military styled truck and several National Guardsmen setting up tents outside of Liberty Kitchen. We quickly reviewed our task lists, donned our chef whites, set up our workstations throughout the kitchen and cafe, got our java fixes and readied ourselves for a long day. In addition to preparing food, we learned that we would be assisting with set up and service because all but one of the several volunteers scheduled to work the event would be present. My teammate, Zachary, and I rummaged through the pantry for ingredients and cooking supplies needed to execute our action station item, a pissaladiere crisp, composed of a bite-sized baked wonton crisp (prepared by Vivian) topped with thin layers of fig-olive tapenade, roasted red pepper and garlic white bean puree and carmelized onions and garnished with a fried caper and a drizzle of white truffle oil. I was excited to prepare this item as it was one created and executed by me and a classmate as part of the appetizer for our final project for culinary school which consisted of a 4-course vegan dinner for 100 guests. I also played a small role in assisting the bakers finalize hundreds of mini sweet potato biscuits that would serve as a base for pulled pork topped with an apple chutney. The biscuits were light and airy and mildly sweet.

My last task before service was to place tablecloths, candles and flowers on the various tables and service stations and help with remaining odd-jobs; no small task as I was exhaustedly racing against a quickly ticking clock and on the verge of dehydration. Needless to say, all was perfect as our first guests arrived. Our team leaders, Christine, Thomas and Viviane were like ninjas throughout the day ensuring that this would be the case.

The pissaladiere crisps were a hit as were all of the other items. Guest particularly enjoyed the action station manned and womanned by fellow team members, Gary, Aimee and Nancy, where they were treated to a fried quail egg served on a bed of sauteed greens atop a corn pancake and prepared a la minute or to order. They also raved over the crawfish risotto, containing a home-made shrimp stock patiently prepared with love by our native Italian volunteer, Olivia, and her partner Andrew. Our early-bird bakers, Lisa and Mark provided a sweet ending to the fundraising gala with 2 desserts: bayou brownies topped with carmelized bananas and a pecan brittle; and a mini po'boy stuffed with diced strawberries, vanilla custard and chocolate.

I took a brief break from the clean-up effort to soak in the remarkable performance of a renowned group of local musicians and savor a few bites of the food we prepared. Below is the scrumptious combined menu we prepared:

Buffet
Mediterranean platter; marinated mushrooms, artichoke hearts, olives, and hummus served with pita chips and crostini
Roasted vegetable platter; slow roasted vegetables served with rosemary aioli
Pasta jambalaya orzo with smoked chicken and sausage tossed with tomatoes celery onions and bell peppers
Tapas
Pork tenderloin tournedos with corn pudding timbale and gingersnap gravy
Andouille sausage with sweet and sour cabbage and cane syrup mustard
Hors D’Oeuvres
Redfish goujonette on puree of cauliflower with roasted shallot and red pepper vinaigrette
Crawfish risotto
Shrimp remoulade on romaine chiffonade
Pulled pork on sweet potato biscuit with apple cranberry chutney
Fried quail egg with kale greens and bacon on a sweet corn cake with mustard and maple gastrique
Pissaladiere with fig olive tapenade, white beans and caramelized onions
Dessert
Bayou brownie with caramelized banana and pepper praline topping
Strawberry po-boys with chocolate curd and vanilla custard

It was midnight and I was overwhelmed with pride and hope as I stepped back and took it all in. In the words of Chef Reggie, "hope is not a passive thing."

Note the "John lennon" glasses on a few of the chefs that are not intended to be a fashion statement but are the result of my lack of knowledge on how to use the red-eye elimination feature of i-photo! I think it's still a good group photo and reminds me of the Mardi Gras glasses that some of us sported during the event.

Cooking and Connecting at Camp Hope

2009-04-23T06:37:00.000-07:00

Now I know what it feels like to be a rock star! The thunderous applause and standing ovation we received from Camp Hope residents still echoes in my head.

On any given day, Camp Hope houses hundreds of Habitat for Humanity, Americorps and other volunteers who are part of the Katrina recovery efforts. Located in St. Bernard's Parish, Camp Hope is a former school that remained closed after Katrina because it was determined to be more than 50% damaged. Bunk beds line the classrooms, several trailers contain showers, another serves as a walk-in freezer for Camp Hope's cafeteria-style kitchen. One volunteer chef and several rotating assistants staff the kitchen and prepare breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks for the residents each day, never quite knowing how many dinners there will be on any given day or for any given meal. They can serve from 300 to 1,000 meals.

Our project was to create a buffet-style meal for about 150 volunteers at Camp Hope. We were given full access to the pantry, which was stocked with donated super-sized canned goods from banana pudding to spinach. Dairy products included margarine, processed eggs and powdered cream. The freezer contained boxes of frozen catfish fillets, chicken thighs and gallon-sized plastic bags containing various soup bases. Although I was not used to working with many of the products, I was prepared to roll up my sleeves and help make to most delicious meal for these well-deserving volunteers. A few of us described our challenge as Dinner Impossible meets Sandra Lee's Semi-Homemade.

Check out this kick-ass Italian inspired menu that we created, prepared and served in about 3 hours.

An Evening in Italy
Primi
Pasta a la Toscana
Fried oysters with lemon aioli
Secondi
Catfish parmigiano
Chicken étouffé italiana
Huevos rancheros frittata
Contorni
Panzanella salad
Chickpea salad with roasted pepper and citrus vinaigrette
Dolce
Banana peanut butter crème brulée
Almond stuffed plums

It was very emotional to open the doors of the cafeteria and look out upon the sea of hungry volunteers waiting patiently in line for what we had just prepared. Some had texted and called volunteers who had not planned to dine at Camp Hope and told them that visiting chefs were preparing the food...over 200 arrived. Even more moving was the opportunity to speak to each one as I doled out the chicken and sausage etoufee that my team prepared. They thanked us and remarked on how delicious the food looked and smelled and how much they appreciated our efforts. We thanked them for all they were doing to restore New Orleans.

Easter Dinner

2009-04-12T21:12:00.001-07:00

After much internal debate, I settled on my Easter dinner menu. The appetizers included various cheeses and crackers and a vegetable crudite accompanied by hummus. For starters, I served: a salad of baby lettuces, thinly shaved fennel and red onions topped with sections of blood oranges and dressed in a citrus vinegarette; a Spring pea soup, with sauteed shallots and petite peas simmered in a tarragon, vegetable broth then pureed and topped with a dollop of marscapone cheese and lastly steamed artichokes served with a home-made lemony Hollandaise dipping sauce.

The entree was a 7 lb. top round roast, marinated for several hours in a rub of finely chopped garlic, sea salt, cracked pepper, rosemary, thyme and olive oil and then slowly roasted for another several hours until a perfectly seasoned crusted enveloped the tender, pink, medium rare meat. The first side consisted of hearty asparagus spears, tossed with olive oil and roasted until almost carmelized, roasted carrots and a melange of crisply roasted wild mushrooms. The earthiness of the asparagus and mushrooms was balanced by the sweetness of the carrots.

The second side was an experimental potato gratin which was quite successful. I sauteed several leeks which I cut into thin rings and, once tender, I simmered in several cups of heavy cream. I seasoned the mixture with nutmeg, sea salt and pepper and pureed to create a beautiful sauce. I layered thinly sliced russet potatoes with skins intact (to maintain the nutritional value) in a buttered baking dish (a beautiful, red oval Le Creuset "fancy pan" which I recently acquired from Williams-Sonoma). I topped the first layer with slices of roasted asparagus, grated Gruyere cheese and 1/3 of the leek cream sauce. I added another two layers ending with a generous sprinkling of Gruyere cheese. I covered with foil and baked for about 40 minutes until bubbly. To finish, I removed the foil and continued baking to achieve a beautiful, deep brown crust of gooey, melted cheese like one finds on a well-prepared French onion soup.

Our dessert was a simple mixture of berries mascerated in a simple syrup. The strawberries, blueberries and blackberries topped a lemon pound cake and were accentuated by a freshly-whipped cream containing hints of vanilla and lemon zest. By the silence in the room, I would say our Easter dinner was quite a success.

We ended the evening with an easter egg hunt of sorts. Everyone got to select from a basket a plastic-egg filled with candy and one lucky person's egg included a small monetary surprise. The kids then parsed through a large collective basket filled with their favorite candies (peeps, chocolate bunnies and jelly beans) and various gag gifts reflective of their diverse personalities.

Tortilla Espanola--Sort Of

2009-03-22T07:53:00.000-07:00

It's a chilly Sunday morning in NYC and I was in the mood to cook something. David had pulled a carton of eggs out of the refrigerator and was about to make scrambled eggs or an omelet. How boring!!! My brain mentally scanned the contents of my pantry. I had potatoes, onions, garlic and spinach. Ah, ha. I'd make a tortilla. And I would use one of the "fancy pans" that David had bought me some months ago that I had yet to use.

First I cut 3 potatoes into 1/2 inch slices and added them to a pot containing enough cold, salted water to cover the potatoes by a few inches. While the potatoes came to a boil and cooked until al dente, I pulled out the fancy frittata pan, added a few tablespoons of olive oil and tossed in thinly sliced onions and sauteed them until they became soft and slightly browned. Any pan will do but it was nice to have this one available; it did a great job. I then added a clove of garlic and the potatoes which I had drained. I stirred the mixture carefully so as not to break the potatoes. I then arranged and pressed the potatoes neatly into the pan, topped them with spinach (which is not traditional for a tortilla espanola) and then topped with six eggs which I had beaten. The tortilla cooked for about 15-20 minutes on low heat. Don't forget to season with salt and pepper as you cook the various ingredients! Slice and enjoy!

This is a great dish to cook on a Sunday and save for breakfast on the run during the busy workweek. Muy delicioso!

Happy St. Patrick's Day

2009-03-17T19:50:00.000-07:00

So it's March 17th and NYC is brimming with leprechauns and drunks pretending to be such. It's a wonderful thing and, despite my fleeting youth, it conjures up in me the spirit of what it must mean to be Irish for a day. As I am nestled up in my apartment avoiding the craziness of the streets of NYC that my sons are traversing as I write, I find comfort in the distant smell of corned beef and cabbage simmering on the stove. I relish in any opportunity to celebrate the culture of another through cooking. The long days of winter struggle to rear their head one last time each March as we join in the celebration of St. Patty's Day. I don't pretend to know alot about him but I do know that it gives me the excuse to foist upon my family a bit of his Irish heritage.

This year, I have decided to be practical and make a dish for two. I bought 1/2 pound of brisket from Whole Foods on Sunday in fear that on St. Patrick's Day it would all be gone. It was not. Tonight at about 6pm, I sauteed a Spanish onion and several cloves of garlic and seared the brisket. I then added several cups of broth and braised the brisket for a few hours. I added 6 whole, organic waxed potatoes and a head of roughly chopped cabbage and continued to simmer. I salt and peppered to taste, added 2 carrots and continued to simmer until everything was tender. It's now 11pm and it looks and smells like the meal is done. David and I aren't hungry but we will enjoy tomorrow. Perhaps this weekend for Sunday dinner I will have the boys dress up in green and will re-create the meal? Stay tuned for Passover Seder and Easter Brunch!

Pad Thai--Thank You, Bobby Flay

2009-03-17T18:22:00.000-07:00

Little did I know that it would take an episode of "Throwdown with Bobby Flay" to convince my significant other to be willing to try a dish that I adore, Pad Thai. For years, I've tried to convince him of what's not to love about Pad Thai. The comfort of carbs derived from thick Asian rice noodles? The crunch of sprouts and toasted peanuts? The satisfying, tender proteins from shrimp to chicken and scrambled egg? The sweet, salty, tangy, spicy exotic flavors of a secret sauce comprised of tamarind, fish sauce and white wine vinegar? To no avail. He was adamant that our relationship would be best served if I gave up my attempts to convert him to a Pad Thai lover or even a Pad Thai tryer.

Until a recent Sunday evening when I successfully pled to keep the channel on Bobby Flay's Pad Thai Throwdown. My David protested but relented to my whining to see this new episode. We watched, fell asleep and woke up the next day unchanged. That is until I called David to say I was weighing my options of coming straight home from work or going to a study group session related to my nutrition course at the Institute of Integrative Nutrition. David suggested that I should come home and, if I did, I should try to replicate the Pad Thai recipes that we had seen the prior evening.

How could I resist this once in a lifetime opportunity to convert David? I rushed home, changed out of my work clothes and ran to Whole Foods to purchase all that I could recall. David had done some research so I had a few recipes in mind. I bought scallions, eggs, shrimp, rice noodles, fish sauce and bean sprouts. I rushed home and pulled out my recently acquired All-Clad Wok. I first took the rice noodles and put them in a pot of boiling water, removed from heat for about 1/2 hour. I then searched my refrigerator for the tamarind and sugar that I smuggled into the US from my recent trip to Oaxaca, Mexico. I added a cup of boiling water to about 3/4 cup of this mixture. Once melted, I added 2 tablespoons of fish sauce and white wine vinegar and allowed the ingredients to sit in a bowl. I then heated some peanut oil and sauteed the scallions and eggs in my new wok. I removed the ingredients and added a pound of shrimp which I had peeled and sliced in half to speed the cooking time. I sauteed the shrimp in some of the strained tamarind mixture and then set aside. I added the rice noodles, with a bit of tamarind sauce and then put in a few handfuls of sprouts. I tossed with the eggs and scallion and slowly added more sauce and finally the shrimp and a bit of sriracha hot sauce. I finished the dish with a bit of chopped cilantro and a squirt of lime to brighten it up a bit.

The noodles broke up a bit and made me a bit nervous but I figured "what did I have to lose?". David was not a Pad Thai connosieur and so long as the dish was tasty, he'd be fine. And so he was. He loved it. He said I should try it out on the kids and their friends during one of our Sunday dinners. That was the ultimate compliment! I decided not to reveal that it was not a true testament to Pad Thai. Next time, perhaps I will add more tamarind and fish sauce for a more authentic flare? Or perhaps, I will keep it the same and not mess with the lovely memorable meal that I created? In any event, David will never know the difference.

Cooking Workshop--New Grains; Amaranth and Millet

2009-03-17T18:20:00.000-07:00

A few weekends ago, I had the pleasure of co-hosting my first cooking workshop with several colleagues from the Institute of Integrative Nutrition. We met in response to my blog, "Calling All Chefs", a request for those interested in exploring our culinary passions and enhancing our skills in teaching health supportive cooking. My expectations were fairly simple but were quickly elevated based on the response I got from a dynamic group of individuals from diverse backgrounds including professionally-trained chefs to amatuers with a unique passion to learn and grow. We met to discuss our areas of interest and agreed that our first cooking workshop would focus on exploring the wonderful world of cooking with new but ancient grains; millet and amaranth. I agreed to take the lead in coordinating the event. Two professionally-trained colleagues would serve as co-hosts and two novices would research and present to the group interesting information on the selected grains. All would leave with a collection of recipes collected and shared by members of the group.

We had the pleasure of having a Japanese-native woman, Hideyo, in our group who was well versed in both millet and amaranth. She graciously shared with us two delicious recipes, Quinoa and Millet Pilaf, and Broccoli and Tofu in an Asian Amaranth Sauce. I shared a simple recipe of Orange Millet with Dried Cranberries and Walnuts. We delighted in the new-found knowledge of ancient grains and also reveled in the pleasure of teaching a few of the novices culinary tips, such as rinsing grains, how to properly sharpen knives and how to layer flavors by toasting the grains and walnuts and incorporating orange rinds (while avoiding the bitter pith). The group was truly engaged. I was personally inspired by the positive energy that emanated from my apartment. I am looking forward to future cooking workshops, including Raw Foods and Comfort Food Conversions.

Time permitting, I will post recipes from our grain workshop as well as historical, cultural and nutritional information on millet and amaranth.

Bread Making with Victor

2009-02-14T05:21:00.000-08:00

Tucked into the side of the northern Sierra Jaurez mountains is the home of a bread maker, Victor. There he resides in a small community with his mother, his sister and his aunt, Miss Leo, pronounced "Lay-O", an herbalist of sorts. To get to there, one must climb a winding road to an elevation of about 9,000 feet and then proceed by foot down a steep narrow dirt path for several hundred yards.

Once again we are led by our able local guide, Nora, who has gained the trust of Victor and his family paving the way for select culinary touristas to enter a world not otherwise acessible. I feel privileged and truly humbled as I soak in the richness of this cultural, social culinary experience.

Victor greeted us and led us past the darkened kitchen where his mother and sister sat to a moderate-sized stone structure lined with panels of creased metal emblazoned with logos of familiar American beers. Once inside, we were instructed to quickly close the door to prevent a change in temperature which could affect the bread baking process. The room was dimly lit by the natural light peeking through a small window that looked out onto the lush mountain side. Despite the darkness, I could see several wooden shelves lined with rounds of flattened dough resembling pita bread. I also noticed a large but rustic mixing machine and sacks of flour resting in a corner. The room smelled of yeast and the smokiness of burning timber that burned in an oven in the next room.

As he referred to a worn, small spiral notebook, he quietly measured out various ingredients on a rusting scale. He gently scooped from a white plastic bucket several cups of lard made from pigs that he raised and combined it in the mixing machine. It whirred as the dry ingredients married with the silkiness of the lard. He periodically, scraped the sides of the large mixing bowl with his hands forming a ball of dough and sensing the precise moment of readiness.

Next, Victor pulled the ball of dough from the mixer and began to roll it. Within minutes, the ball became a lengthy, smooth snake stretching across a wooden table. He quickly cut the rolled dough into eighteen exact portions and then divided each into two kneading them in each of his cupped hands. He paused to give his guest bakers a chance to demonstrate their skills. I was reminded of the difficulty of rubbing my belly while patting my head; my hands would not cooperate with my mind. However, I felt that I had passed a test when Victor kindly remarked in Spanish that he would gladly hire me. Before he could change his mind, I quickly indicated that I was done and gave my fellow guest bakers a try. All had a bit of difficulty and were eager to see Victor demonstrate the next step. He instinctively rolled out the balls of dough into perfect circles with a beer bottle and placed them on a plank of wood that he later carried into the adjacent smoky room in which the oven resided.

He swept the smoldering ambers with a long, damp straw broom and lifted the resting dough onto a long piel which he inserted into the oven. He repeated this step two more times. As we watched, the yeasty dough slowly rose and turned a golden brown. They were removed from the oven and laid to rest as we inhaled the aroma of freshly baked bread. We would have to wait to get a taste of this morning's creation.

I Scream, You Scream, We All Scream for Ice Cream

2009-02-13T22:57:00.000-08:00

What a more perfect way to cool off in the hot afternoon, Mexican sun? Handcrafted icecream! One popular version found at the Mercado Morelos is two flavored; a sweet tasting, almost white cream made made from scalded milk topped with a vibrant magenta colored prickly pear.Mmmm! When I go home, I will muster up the energy to pull out the ice-cream maker to test out a few flavors. Scalded milk might be tricky as they don't teach us this in cooking school!